Poncho II: Sidesways Knit Poncho (AKA: Charlene's Poncho)

This page has a generator (program) to create a pattern to let you knit a poncho pattern in your size using your own yarn. It has lots of options for shaping. It's really 4 poncho shapes in one generator! Two of the shapes are "officially" two panel ponchos, and two are "officially" one panel ponchos. (But you knit them all in one piece with short rows to shape.) You'll see a lot of explanation to help you decide how to design yours. Scroll down and fiddle with the generator to understand though.

Feb. 15, 2004
Lucia Liljegren
Visit the whole site! Or the blog, poncho index, poncho I or poncho III. And now poncho IV!
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Charlene asked what's a "generator"? So, I told her, a web based program to create a pattern in your own knit gauge and your own size. I think I made the word up...

Anyway, she replied.. "Well.. I guess I'd like a poncho generator!"

Well... she was the first to use the Poncho II generator. You can see her poncho, and my poncho and schematics of these ponchos by clicking Charlene's Poncho page.

Charlene's question made me realize that I also really, really needed some ponchos. The fashion designers have been showing lots of ponchos on the runways, so I guess they are "in". They are also amazingly practical for travel, and I'm going to on vacation next week. (I've got to escape freezing cold Chicago!)

I've written two poncho pattern generators now. The first was hand knit top down. I made that poncho for my doll. I wanted to gain confidence with the shoulder shaping and I didn't want to waste yarn.

Hand knitters will probably like that poncho shape. You can see that poncho generator here: Poncho I

So.. my poncho and Charlene's are different from each other, right? Well, you can create patterns for either one at this web page.

As you can see, one poncho is wider than the other. Charlene's poncho and gray poncho below are the style I call "medium" on this page. My pink one is the "wide" version. There are 4 widths all together, and you can choose any on this page.

The gray poncho below is knit from Brown Sheep Nature Spun fingering yarn, which I bought on 1 lb cones. The poncho took about 6-8 ounces of yarn. The gauge is about 7 st/in. The pink poncho is knit from yarn I impulse bought when I passed a yarn store while on vacation 5 years ago. The yarn was cheap, cheap, yeap!!! And it's very soft, warm, and 100% wool. The yarn is amazingly thin; I used 2 strands to obtain a gauge of 8 st/in. (We all have impluse buy yarn... right? And we have no clue what gauge it's going to knit up to? That's why we all need generators!)

Notice the pink "wide" poncho flares out more than the medium poncho. This page permits you to generate ponchos with 4 basic flare types, which I call "slim", "medium", "wide" and "full". Many of the ponchos on the runway are of the "slim" variety, which is slimmer than either shown here. I'm going to knit myself one of those in turquoise tomorrow on Monday, so you'll see a blurry picture of that poncho soon. I also programmed a really, really full poncho, which I call full. See how I'm holding my arms to the side in the pink one? Well, if it were "full", I'd be able to hold them straight out and the poncho would just drape down. I'm not planning to make the "full" poncho. However, the full poncho would be great to wear camping; it would give you lots of room for arm movement.

Anyway, scroll down, and create your own pattern.
Lucia

To see more poncho styles, visit the illustration page.

Poncho with angles shown. Information about ponchos and this generator.

It is machine knit on my Brother 910. ( These directions are written in "Japanese MK language" )
It can have "slim", "medium", "wide" and "full" flare. "Medium flare" is pictured to the left. (I also added "EZ" and "EZest" shaping.)
Slim and medium flare ponchos are knit in 2 pieces and worn with the point down the center. Slim (not shown) has a chevron angle, alpha, of approximately 30 degrees and is less pointy that the poncho shown. Medium has a chevron angle, alpha, of approximately 45 degrees as shown.
Wide and full flare ponchos are knit in 4 pieces. The wide poncho is illustrated in pink. It has a chevron angle, alpha, of approximately 30 degrees as shown.
Slim ponchos always have shoulder darts. The shoulder angle Beta is shown to the left. You can see that the side flattens out near the shoulders. The shoulder darts make the shoulders fit nicely and prevent the neck from bunching or becoming a cone and bunching down.
Shoulder darts are optional for medium ponchos. I like the darts because they make the neck fit more nicely, but traditional ponchos of this sort usually do not have darts.
Shoulder darts are optional for the wide poncho, and will be place in the center of two of the trapezoids. You should just barely be able to see the change in slope due to the darts on the pink poncho shown. Notice the side "kinks" a little at the shoulder. When you knit darts in the wide poncho, the two diagonal seams are worn on either side of the center front and back; this resembles the seam placement on a raglan sweater. I emphasized the seam on the picture to the left. If you omit the darts, you can wear the poncho with the diagonal down front or to the sides. (I didn't knit one this way, but to see a similar shape visit: handknitting.com. Notice the seams at the shoulders and down the front. Notice the chevron angle looks less pointy than the grey poncho above. It's definitely a wide. However, I haven't read the pattern, and that poncho may have the equivalent of shoulder darts. I plan to write a third poncho page that will permit dart shaping at the shoulders when the poncho is worn that way, but I haven't yet!)
The "full" poncho has a chevron angle of almost 45 degrees; it's even wider than the "wide" poncho. (I call it full flare because it will lie almost like a tablecloth if you lay open it and lay it flat.) The "full" flare poncho has no shoulder darts. You can wear it with the point down or the points to the side.

You must pick an edge treatment to prevent the hem from curling. Fringe actually eliminates curling all by itself. I haven't applied my edge treatement. I just steamed the wool heavily. I'm thinking of just adding a row of single crochet. Or, I may decide it doesn't curl too badly and just skip finishing the edges. (Ok.. I already did. I wore the grey poncho out to dinner last night.)
You must pick a neck treatment. I added a crochet trim to the neck of the gray one, and I knit 14 rows of stockinet at the neck of the pink one. This maked a cute roll neck. (I'll take a close up picture of both soon.)
You must pick your yarn, needles, stitch pattern and other design features.
The shoulder darts are knit using short rows. Your knitting machine manual may call these "partial rows" or "short rows". So, do make sure you can knit short rows with the stitch type you selected before you begin.

Remember: Like all patterns spit out by my generators, this is mostly shaping directions. I suggest methods to increase and decrease, but you can feel free to change them.

Donation Request

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Enter Data for Your Poncho

You must modify the following data to match the gauge and shape you want! Just change the numbers, and click "calculate" when you are finished.

Enter Your Gauge Swatch Information
Main stitch pattern: Used for most of the poncho
Main stitch pattern name:
Stitches per inch:
Rows per inch:
Poncho flare:

Pick a main stitch pattern.   Yep, try stockinet, garter stitch, ribbing, fair-isle, tuck stitch, lace or anything you like.   However, since these directions require knitting short rows, you must be able to set the carriage to knit partial rows using your stitch of choice.

Measure your gauge from a that is at least 4" wide and 4" tall; larger is even better. Calculate the gauge to 3 significant figures (e.g. 4.25 st/in not 4 st/in) then enter the numbers in the boxes to the left.   If the current numbers don't match your gauge, you're poncho won't fit. So, put your mouse in the box and change the numbers. Poof. New pattern!

Not to repeat myself but... make a big gauge swatch. Knowing your gauge is very important!

Pick your poncho flare. This program determines an increase rate worked over either 4 or 6 rows that results in a slim, medium, wide or full poncho. Slim and medium ponchos are knit in two pieces; wide and full ponchos are knit in 4 pieces.

Slim and wide ponchos try to make the chevron angle approximately 30 degrees. (I call this the "target" chevron angle). Medium ponchos have a target chevron angle of approximately 45 degrees.   Full ponchos have a target chevron angle of approximately 40 degrees.

The "EZ" ending will ensure the repeat is over 4 rows and not over 6 rows. The EZest ending ensures the repeat will be over 2 rows. These choices may cause the chevron angle to differ from the target value. ( I have no trouble remembering the 6 row repeat because I make myself a row/stitch count cheat sheet and use my row counter.)

If you pick an "EZ" or "EZest" ending, do verify that you like the shoulder angle, beta, which appears below. I have coded these to give you design flexibility.

For the currently gauges and poncho width specified in the boxes to the left, you will be instructed to increase stitches over rows.

For your choice of flare you will knit trapezoids.

Enter Your Poncho Shape Parameters
The default values are for a doll poncho. Type in values for you.
Head opening : inches.	Enter the size of the opening you want for your head. The program will match as closely as possible, but may round up or down. I can fit my 22" head through an 18" opening, so I typed 18" in place of the 9". For a your poncho, at your row gauge, the width of the top of the trapezoids will be: inches.
Length of Poncho along diagonal seam: inches.	Enter the length you would like along the poncho diagonal. I like 25" ponchos, so I'd enter that. It has to be long enough to make the poncho cover your shoulders. If it's not long enough, I'll warn you here: oldwarning box For any poncho worn with the diagonal down the front, the diagonal length will be the length you neck to the bottom of the point in the front and/or back. If you wear the full flare poncho with the point down the front, the diagonal is also sort of the full sleeve length. (That is, the sleeve plus some length that covers your shoulder.) When designing, it is advisable to check height of the trapezoids. It is equal to: inches. (To change this value, modify your style choice, or the length of the diagonal.) Due to rounding, the actual diagonal will be inches. For slim and medium ponchos, this height of the trapezoid is sort of the full sleeve length.
Shoulder Darts:	If you are knitting a "medium" or a "wide" poncho, choose whether or not you want darts. If you are knitting a "slim" or "wide" poncho, I ignore your choice. Please read the description above to learn about darts on this style. If you chose darts, the neck will fit very, very nicely. The poncho instructions will be more complicated. If you set shoulder darts to "no", double check the shoulder angle box in the Summary Data Table below and make sure you are happy with that angle. If you are not happy, don't knit a poncho using the stitch you selected.
Shoulder Width: inches	You must enter the desired shoulder width for ponchos with shoulder darts. The value is not used for ponchos without darts. I am a 5'4" woman; my shoulder width is about 14.5". If I were planning to wear the poncho over a sweat shirt, I'd add at least a 1/2 inch wider, so I typed in 15" for my poncho. If you don't know your shoulder width, you can get someone else to measure your width between the shoulder bones on your body, or measure the width off a favorite blouse. Or, take a look at this catalog size table for adults, or this one for kids. When in doubt, guess larger shoulders rather than smaller shoulders. Poncho's look ok with "drop shoulders". The head opening must be smaller than twice the shoulder width. If it is not, I'll warn you here: oldWarning box.

To calculate the results, click the button!

Results

Don't try to edit anything below this point. If you want to change them, change values in the table above. The summary tables are for informational purposes only.

I Calculated These Values

Alpha degrees. This is the chevron and tells you something about stripes would meet at the diagonal seam. The chevron angle depends heavily on the your choice of flare, and slightly your stitch and row gauge. When worn, your poncho's side flare will be: degrees.

Height of trapezoid: inches.
For a two piece poncho, this is the full sleeve length of your poncho.

Width of one trapezoid at hem: inches.
The full hem is inches. (I may have subtracted the un-worked dart width for two of the pieces.)
When you lay the poncho flat with the point facing down, the width at the widest point will be inches.

Gamma: degrees. You probably don't give a hoot about this angle. It's the dart angle as knit. If you don't change my value for beta (below), gamma will be a little less than 60º for the slim poncho and a little less than 45º for the medium poncho. If you choose darts, it will be little less than 30º for the wide poncho.

Beta (shoulder angle): degrees.

This is the shoulder angle as measured from the horizontal when the poncho is knit. A positive value means the shoulders slope down; a negative value means they slope up. (Human being's shoulders slope down. )

The value of Beta depends on your gauge, the poncho flare, and the whether or not you will be knitting shoulder darts. If you are knitting shoulder darts, Beta is as close to degrees as I could get while still writing fairly simple directions. (If your design uses darts, you can change the value in the previous box! The shoulder shaping will change. However, I recommend avoiding having beta fall outside 0 and 20 degrees. That said, many people wear ponchos with Beta near 30º, and are perfectly happy with the fit at the shoulder. )

If you are not knitting darts, Beta may fall outside the recommended range of 0º to 20º.

I Calculated These Values
Alpha degrees.	This is the chevron and tells you something about stripes would meet at the diagonal seam. The chevron angle depends heavily on the your choice of flare, and slightly your stitch and row gauge. When worn, your poncho's side flare will be: degrees.
Height of trapezoid: inches.	For a two piece poncho, this is the full sleeve length of your poncho.
Width of one trapezoid at hem: inches.	The full hem is inches. (I may have subtracted the un-worked dart width for two of the pieces.) When you lay the poncho flat with the point facing down, the width at the widest point will be inches.
Gamma: degrees.	You probably don't give a hoot about this angle. It's the dart angle as knit. If you don't change my value for beta (below), gamma will be a little less than 60º for the slim poncho and a little less than 45º for the medium poncho. If you choose darts, it will be little less than 30º for the wide poncho.
Beta (shoulder angle): degrees.	This is the shoulder angle as measured from the horizontal when the poncho is knit. A positive value means the shoulders slope down; a negative value means they slope up. (Human being's shoulders slope down. ) The value of Beta depends on your gauge, the poncho flare, and the whether or not you will be knitting shoulder darts. If you are knitting shoulder darts, Beta is as close to degrees as I could get while still writing fairly simple directions. (If your design uses darts, you can change the value in the previous box! The shoulder shaping will change. However, I recommend avoiding having beta fall outside 0 and 20 degrees. That said, many people wear ponchos with Beta near 30º, and are perfectly happy with the fit at the shoulder. ) If you are not knitting darts, Beta may fall outside the recommended range of 0º to 20º.

Stitch Summary Table

Location	Stitches	Width	Rows	Length
Cast On	Same as Begin Neck		0 rows	0 inches
First Short Row	stitches.		2 rows
Begin Neck	stitches	inches.	rows.	inches.
Begin Dart	Same as above.	Same as above.	rows.	inches
Center Dart (Shoulder)	stitches out of work.	--	rows.	--
End Dart	Same as begin dart.	Same as begin dart	rows	inches.
End Neck		inches.	rows.	inches.
After Last Short Row	stitches.		rows.
Bind off	Same as Begin Neck		rows	inches.

Note: You cast on all the stitches and then knit short rows. So, you will always have the same number of stitches on the needle or bed.

Knitting Directions:

These directions include information for HK and MK. The are also written to provide you lots of information so you can decide where to add any embellishments, should you wish to do so. I suggest highlighting the relevalevant information so you can ignore the other information as you knit.

The poncho is made from major pieces that are trapezoids; these major pieces are are sewn together on long diagonal edges to make one piece leaving one edge unsewn. Afterwards you apply edge finishes of your choice to the neck and hem. (I don't tell you how to do this. You can crochet around the edge, you can pick up stitches on a circular needles and add a row of garter stitch, you can do all sorts of things). Finally, sew the final diagonal edge and neck together. Finish the ends and you are done.

Please read the directions from beginning to end. Make sure you understand them. The values should all add up.

Here are some general tips for Machine Knitters using Japanese machines:

MK: The hem will be on the right hand side of the machine. The neck will be on the left hand side of the machine.
HK: The hem will be on the right hand side with the knit side of the work faces you. The neck will be on the left hand side when the knit side faces you.
The length of the piece is give for the benefit of the hand knitters.
You may want to plan a hem edge treatment in advance. There are some that can be worked along the edge as you knit, in which case, you better knit it now. (The hem edge will be on the right.) If you don't have a hem edge picked out in advance, you will need to apply one when you are done. (I'd read some circular knit skirt patterns to find a nice hem edge treatment.) I don't have any suggestions yet.

Poncho Side:

Make two. Notes:

MK indicates some special instructions for machine knitters. HK indicates instructions for hand knitter.
MK: COL = Carriage On Left; COR= Carriage On Right. HK: COL means purl side facing you. COR means knit side facing.

MK. Set machine to knit
MK. Cast on stitches in waste yarn. Knit a few rows ending [COL]. Break yarn. Thread the yarn mast with some slippery yarn (I used crochet cotton) and knit 1 row. [COR]. Ewrap cast on with yarn for poncho.
HK. Just cast on the number of stitches indicated above.

MK: Set row counter to 0.
Rows 1 & 2: Knit 2 rows. [COR]
Center diagonal shaping: Increasing short rows.

MK: Set machine to Hold position. (To knit partial rows.) Move all needles to hold position. You will begin putting needles into work position starting with the needles closest to the right hand edge of the bed.
HK: You will begin knitting stitches with the stockinet side of the work facing you.

Rows 3 & 4: MK: Bring needles on right edge of work to work position. Knit 1 row. [COL] Yarn will lie over needles in hold position. Move the yarn under the first needle in hold position. ( That is, the needle next to the last one needle that knit during the last carriage pass.) This "wraps" the stitch and prevents a hole. Knit 1 row. [COR]
Rows 3 & 4: HK: Knit the number of stitches in box above. Bring yarn forward as to purl. Slip stitch. Bring yarn back as to knit. Turn work. Purl side facing you. Slip next two stitches. (Wrap and slip. the wrap prevents a hole, the slip evens out a bump.) Knit to the end of the row. Knit side facing you.
From now I will just tell you how many more stitches to add to the pair of short rows.

For MK: Bring the additional needles to work position, knit a row, wrap, knit a row.
For HK, Knit over the stitches you knit on the last knit side row, plus the additional number indicated in the box, wrap, turn, knit back to the edge. Turn.

Repeat the following procedure described between **'s times:

** Procedure Rows 1 & 2 : Knit 2 short rows with more stitches/needles. [ COR]
Procedure Rows 3 & 4: Knit 2 short rows with more stitches/needles. [ COR]
Procedure Rows 5 & 6: **

Note 1: The above procedure causes you to increase stitches and knit rows each time you repeat the procedure between the **'s.
First shaping complete. There are stitches and rows.
MK: You may set the machine to plain knitting. (N on Brother.)

Begin Neck

HK: Hang a yarn marker in this row to mark the neck. Make sure this is well away from the neck edge, so you can use it to measure the neck width as you knit.
MK: Knit rows over all stitches in work. [ COR]. HK: Knit all stitches in each row until neck measures inches from the neck marker. End with knit side facing.
You have either reached the dart or the end of the neck. Cumulative rows: .

Shoulder Darts:

Follow the dart directions as written for the two pieces with darts.
For each piece without darts, replace the shoulder dart with 4 rows knitted over all stitches, then knit rows required to finish the neck. The row counter will read rows. Advance the row counter to . (This should match the value required just before starting the diagonal decrease.) Work the diagonal decrease.

The shoulder dart always includes a 4 row procedure and usually includes a 2 row procedure.
The 4 row procedure is the one that actually makes the neck lay nicely on your shoulders.
The 2 row procedure rounds out the shoulder when the first dart is very deep. If the directions say to perform the two row procedure zero times, that means don't work it at all.
The two row procedure is always optional, and you skip it. However, in this case, the poncho will be narrower through the top of the body. This can be a problem for slim ponchos.
If you do chose to skip this 2 row procedure, be sure to skip it for both shoulders.
If you skip the 2 row procedure, do work the two "seal rows" just before and after the shoulder. After working the seal rows, move your row counter forward to match the row counts in the remaining directions.

MK: Set machine to work short (i.e. partial) rows. (H on Brother.)
MK: You will move needles to hold position starting from the left hand side of the bed.
HK: You will begin with knit side facing you, knit over until just a few stitches are left on your left needle. Then knit and wrap. The instructions are written in "machine" language. Each "needle" on the machine corresponds to a stitch in HK. So, just interpret "needle" as "stitch". Knit nearly to the edge, until the appropriate number of stitches are left on the left needle, then wrap, turn and knit back. )
All: The directions say "more". The first time you do perform Row 1, there are zero stitches in hold. So, just move that many into hold!

Perform the following 4 row repeat times.

** Procedure Row 1 & 2: Move more needles on the far left side hand of the bed to hold position. Knit 1 row. Wrap first needle in hold. Knit 1 row. [ COR ]
Procedure Row 3 & 4: Move more needles on the left hand side of the bed to hold position. Knit 1 row. Wrap first needle in hold. Knit 1 row. [ COR] **

Perform the following 2 row repeat times. (This rounds out the shoulders. If you really hate working short rows, skip this procedure and dial your row counter forward. In which case, skip the next 2 row repeat also!)

** Procedure Row 1 & 2: Move in work needles on the far left side hand of the bed to hold position. Knit 1 row. Wrap first needle in hold. Knit 1 row. [ COR] **

Set machine to plain knitting and/or place all needles to work position. Knit 1 row to seal. [COL]

You have reached the shoulder. (Cumulative rows: rows since cast on. stitches were taken out of work when knitting the dart.)

You will now mirror the first part of the dart.
Keep all stitches in work. Knit 1 row. [COR] (This mirrors the "seal" row.)

MK: Move needles on left (neck) edge to back into hold. HK: Mentally note this number of stitches. This is the number you will leave on the left stitch before wrapping on the next row.
Knit 1 short row, wrap, knit 1 row. [COR]. (This mirrors the final short row you knit before the shoulder).

Perform the following 2 row repeat times. (This rounds out the shoulders. If you skipped it the previous time, skip it now!)

** Procedure Row 1 & 2: Move needles closest to those in work from hold to work. Knit 1 row. Wrap first needle in hold. Knit 1 row. [ COR] **

Perform the following 4 row repeat times.

** Procedure Row 1 & 2: Move needles closest to those in work from hold to work. Knit 1 row. Wrap first needle in hold. Knit 1 row. [COR]
Procedure Row 3 & 4: Move needles closest to those in work from hold to work. Knit 1 row. Wrap first needle in hold. Knit 1 row. [COR] **

Dart completed. (Cumulative rows: .)
HK: Place another neck marker. MK: Set machine to plain knitting. (N on Brother.)
MK: Knit rows over all stitches in work. HK: Knit until neck measures inches marker placed at end of dart.
Optional shoulder darts and neck complete. Cumulative rows: rows.

End Shoulder Darts and Neck.

Center diagonal shaping: Decreasing stitches. (You will be mirroring the shaping you worked when increasing after casting on.)
MK: Set machine to knit partial rows. (H on Brother.)
Repeat the following procedure described between **'s times except don't work the last set of short rows the final time you repeat the procedure.

** Procedure Rows 1 & 2: Put more needles in hold on the left edge. Knit 1 row; wrap. Knit 1 row. [COR]
Procedure Rows 3 & 4:

Procedure Rows 5 & 6: Put more needles on the left edge. Knit 1 row; wrap. Knit 1 row [COR] **

Note: The procedure above causes you to reduce stitches and knit rows each time you repeat the procedure between **'s.

Knit a 2 short rows with stitches. (This mirrors rows 3&4) (Cumulative rows= )
MK: Set machine to plain knitting (N on Brother) or bring all needles into work. Knit 2 rows over all stitches. (This mirrors rows 1&2)
Bind off all stitches.
Final shaping complete. rows worked. Total length is inches. (If two pieces have darts and two don't; this is the length of the pieces with darts.)
MK: Pull out the slippery yarn and remove the waste yarn.

Option: You can skip the bind off and start the next piece. This avoids seams. However, you will have one seam, and you need to decide whether it bothers you that some joins are seamless and one is seamed. If you do follow this option, skip the cast on and rows 1 & 2. Set the row counter to 2 and start with the first short row. Since you won't seam this diagonal, you don't need those extra two rows.
Also, if you are knitting a 4 piece poncho, be sure to knit one piece with darts, then knit one piece without darts, then one with darts, then without darts!

One "trapezoid" done.
Make a total of trapezoids. (Note: At most 2 trapezoids have darts! If you are making 4 pieces, skip the darts on two of them.)
After you finished knitting all trapezoids, sew them together along diagonal edges leaving one edge open.
If you have 4 pieces and two have shoulder darts, make sure to place the pieces without darts in between the pieces with darts so they alternate "darts, no darts, darts, no darts". (That way, the darts will land on your shoulders where they belong.)
Apply the neck treatment of your choice.

Suggestion for ponchos knit in stockinet. Apply at least 4 rows of stockinet, ribbing or garter stitch to the neck edge. Bind off.
If you knit a stockinet trim with the knit side facing the same way as the garment's knit side, this trim will roll forward. This will countering the tendency of stockinet edges to roll toward the back. Garter stitch and ribbing do not roll.
If you knit your poncho in stockinet, and you are knitting the trim in stockinet, I suggest using to stitches at the neck. Round the value to accomodate any particular trim type you chose. The lower stitch value will draw the neck in a bit, the larger value should be exactly as wide as the neck. If you are applying ribbing to a stockinet trim, use the larger number of stitches suggested. If you are applying garter stitch to a stockinette edge, apply the lower number of stitches suggested, or fewer.

Sew the other diagonal seam and finish off all loose ends.
Apply a hem edge treatment. If you feel like adding fringe, add fringe!

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Lucia Liljegren 2004.