Lucia's Cardigan from The Knitting Fiend!
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As always, you can recreate the shaping directions for free.
Just visit the sweater pattern
generator page.
This page describes the stitches and settings I used to knit the
sweater.
If you don't' "get" the idea of running a pattern generator visit
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Back to school!
I can't control the temperature in my office, lab or lecture halls.
So, I need something I can put on and take off easily when I move from
room to room. The color needs to hide white board marker, and the
garment needs to be machine washable. To make things more difficult,
I only like soft natural fibers!
So, here's my solution: A luscious lambs wool cardigan in Jagger SuperLamb.
I picked tourmaline because I just love the color and it goes with everything
in the stores this fall.
My sweater used about 12 oz of Jagger SuperLamn.
I picked a double bed tuck stitch for the body and knit the welts
circular. The sweater is light as a feather, but wonderfully soft
and warm.
This is a Knitting Fiend pattern, so you can easily duplicate
my sweater in your size. Do pick your favorite color of Superlamb
and make the sweater in your own size. If you want to duplicate
mine exactly, you can replicate my style selections,
stitch
patterns and partial knitting
directions. For complete knitting directions, you must run the
cardigan
generator.
By the way, this tuck stitch pattern gives a very wide stitch gauge,
so it can be used to make large size sweaters on any machine with ribber.
My sweater used 100 needles for the back. The factor limiting the
width will be the choice of welt stitch. My sweater used 120 needles for
the welts! If you are knitting for a very large person, consider
a knitting technique that spreads for the wrist and lower welts, or experiment
with a looser stitch tension.
Lucia
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Style selections:
To create your own pattern, will need to visit the
sweater pattern generator Toggle the function to "Estimate" and
click "Style". You should select your design parameters, and when
you are done, click "Submit".
Page 1:
Make these style choices:
Units: I used inches, but you can use cm if you wish.
Neckline type: V
Sleeve length: Long
Sleeve cap type: Fitted.
Body Shaping: Straight.
Estimate yarn requirements. Your choice.
Cuff shaping: Yes.
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Hip rib shaping: Yes.
Bust size: Enter yours.
Hip size: Enter yours.
Neck circumference: Enter yours.
Size range: This setting is used to "guess" the rest of your measurements.
I used Woman_Misses. You can knit this cardigan for a man, woman
or child!
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After you sent this information, the form will change slightly.
If you open the measurement forms, you will find most of the boxes are
filled. Read the second form. Knit your own swatch and enter
your specific swatch gauge. If you don't know how to do this, visit
the swatch page.
Verify all your body measurements. If you don't know how to measure,
visit the measurement page. Change
numbers to match your measurements. I changed my arm length, because
mine are short. I also changed my shoulder width, because my shoulders
are narrow.
If you want a sweater just like mine, there are some important pieces
of style information you'll want to verify or enter.
Information for the button band:
Button diameter 0.625" (i.e. 5/8"
Button Band width: twice_button (This will be 1.3")
Band thickness: single
Band orientation: vertical
Top button direction: horizontal
Other button directions: horizontal
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Trim knit first: neck.
Front bands overlap or meet at center?: overlap.
Band width. 1.3"
Number of buttons: 7
Wrist welt depth 1.3"
Welt depth 1.3"
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Other style information to change:
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Length: 29"
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Neck ribbing length: doesn't matter for a V. Type whatever you want.
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Length of ribbing at bottom of sweater: 1.3"
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Length of cuff ribbing 1.3"
For all other style information, use the defaults. (That is, don't
change the numbers. They are fine!)
Stitch pattern
Here's a picture of a swatch showing the tuck stitch pattern.
This fabric was knit from one strand of Jagger Super Lamb using double-bed tuck stitch technique 139. I couldn't
decide if I liked the front or back side of the swatch better. My
husband chose the front side of the swatch for the public side of the sweater.
The Passap manual usually recommends the back side as the as the
public side!
Note: This fabric is beautiful, and has a soft drape. It
has a light subtle texture; it's almost lacy.. The sweater is just
warm enough for most offices. If you want a firmer texture or a warm
outdoor sweater, knit the same stitch pattern using Superlamb double stranded,
or use a tighter tension. You'll love it!
If you knit on a standard gauge, I recommend using Jagger Spun Superlamb
single
or double stranded for double bed work and double or triple
stranded in single bed work. It knits very easily. The yarn
could be used multi stranded on mid gauges. However, I don't own
a midgauge, so I can't make specific recommendations.
The reader card for the main stitch pattern is shown to the right.
On the main bed, each black square tucks over 4 rows; each white
square knits over 4 rows. Consult your manual for information regarding
stitch technique 139. |
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Passap settings
To knit htis on the Passap, you need to know the settings and number of
yarn strands.
Main stitch:
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Single strand of Jagger SuperLamb.
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Stitch setting 3 / 3.
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N/KX (Knit,Tuck).
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Pushers on front. No pushers on back.
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Each black grid tucks 4 rows. White knits four rows.
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Handle down. (Needles off-set)
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Violate the needle rule and raise and extra needles on the left side of
the back bed. This prevents stitches from dropping.
I don't know much about other machines. However, if you read the
bullets, you can probably translate the pattern to your machine!
You will need a main bed and a ribber.
Welt:
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Double strand of Jagger SuperLamb
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Body and wrist welts knit at stitch setting 6/6.
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Closed end cast on for tubular. (Cast on #8).
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Continue knitting in tubular.
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No reader card.
Passap setting for button bands:
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Double strand of Jagger SuperLamb.
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Stitch setting 5.5/5.5
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Closed end cast on for tubular. (Cast on #8).
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Continue knitting in tubular.
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No reader card.
Specific knitting
directions:
You may knit the pieces in any order you prefer. Attach fronts to
back at shoulder. Sew sleeve caps to armholes. Sew front to
back at sides, and sew sleeve seams. Attach button band. Attach
buttons.
Welts:
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Welts are knit circular. Follow shaping directions from generator.
Because this sweater uses the "yes" selection for the wrist and hip welt
shaping, you may need to increase or decrease stitches when you change
to the body stitch. I increased after the wrist welts but decreased
after the hip welt.
Body:
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The body stitch is the tuck stitch just described.
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Follow shaping directions from generator.
Button bands:
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The directions for the button bands are extensive. I found the smaller
buttonholes
were large enough for my 5/8" buttons. However, I have read articles
suggesting that the larger size button hole is required. So,
until I've made at least 10 sweaters, the really long directions about
buttonholes are staying! Do make the practice button holes and test
before making the whole band!
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You must stretch the band slightly when sewing to the body.
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I knit button bands using circular knitting using a tighter tension than
for the welts. This made nice firm bands. In any case, I find that
my tension is always different when I knit over really small numbers of
stitches! So, even if you use the same tension for the welts
and bands, it's worth double checking the gauge.
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I don't like the technique I used for making the buttonholes; they
are too "fat" and look sort of like ovals instead of slits. So I'm
not going to explain it in detail. Consult your knitting machine
manual.
Your first yarn estimate.
If you want a yarn estimate before buying yarn, you can use my yardage
values. Of course, this is a crude estimate because you may end up
using a tighter gauge, or picking another stitch. Still try these:
Gauge swatch
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Welt: Rows = 40, Length = 2
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Welt: Stitches = 50; Width = 8.3
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Main: Rows = 120 ; Length = 4.75
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Main: Stitches = 55; Length = 11.5
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Button band: same as welt. (If you use a KM, it probably won't be,
but this is good for a first guess. Do knit a welt swatch.)
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Yardage swatch
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Main: Rows= 10; Stitches = 30; Yarn length = 6.5 yards; Uncertainty = 0.028
yards
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Welt: Rows = 10; Stitches = 30; Yarn length = 13; Uncertainty = 1 yards
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This should give you a fairly decent estimate. But do rerun the
pattern generator after you make your swatch. Otherwise the sweater
won't fit.
Knit away, fiends,
Lucia
Copyright © The Knitting Fiend, All Rights Reserved. Sept.
2000