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Machine Knit Mittens: Flanged

 This page has a pattern generator (aka program) to create a pattern to help you knit a mittens using a single knitting machine.  

 Mine were knit on a Brother , but you can knit them on any single bed including a Studio, Bond or Artisan easily.  I knit and felted mine; you can see the before and after mitten to the left.   Felting is not required; the mittens are cute either way. You can knit them using the yarn of your choice. 

The hand knit version of the pattern, knit on two needles is available; click here.after

Main site,  blog (read the latest), mitten collection,  hat collection and  poncho & cape collection.

You must set your browser to run javascript and to accept cookies to run this program.   With some browsers, the address bar should also read "http://www.thedietdiary" at the beginning. If the www's aren't there, stick them in!

Characteristics of the mittens:

  • Knit from bottom up on a single bed.
  • Hem hung on a stockinette strip.
  • Wrist snugged in by mock rib.
  • You may vary size the to fit any hand.
  • You may felt them.
  • You can make them double thickness. (In which case, I wouldn't felt them!)
  • You enter the stitch and row gauge for your yarn. 
Felting advice: You  must use an animal fiber, like 100% wool, or the yarn will not felt.  The yarn lable should say the yarn is not be machine washable. When felting, I find it best to knit the swatch loosely. So, use a one tension setting higher than you would normally use for the yarn.   Felt the swatch by throwing it the washing machine with a partial load of whites and wash in hot.  Do the same with the  mittens after you knit them.

Remember: Like all patterns spit out by my generators, this is mostly shaping directions.  The purpose of the generators is to let you be creative, while eliminating the need to do pesky calculations. 

Lucia

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Patterns are worth something. Custom patterns should be worth even more.  This is sort of "shareware".   If you knit one of these, please send me a $3 donation.  (Pictures are welcome too!)

Enter Data for Your Mittens

You must modify the following data to match the gauge and shape you want!  Just change the numbers; it recalculates automatically.

 
Replace My Gauge Swatch Information Your Gauge Swatch Information
Note your machine setting on your directions in pen.  You must use the same machine setting when knitting the swatch and the mittens!
Enter tension for swatch and mittens: If you want to felt or line the  mittens, select "yes" for felted. This makes the thumb 2 stitches wider than otherwise, which is more comfortable after felting.   Enter the stitch and row gauge after treating the swatch as you plan to treat the mitten.  For unfelted mittens, this means washed and blocked; for felted mittens, this means after felting. You also might want to design the lined mittens a size larger than the wearer normally uses. The inner mitten will be a little smaller than the outer mitten, and you need their hand to fit inside the inner mitten. 

Child's X-small corresponds to 2-4 year olds. Child's medium is for 7 year olds. Child's X-large is for young teens.  "Adult's medium" fits my medium women's hands; adult large fits men's medium hands.  If you want to be more certain, measure a pair off mittens that fit.

Based on your input, my program will make mittens  inches long after the change from the mock ribbing.

Stitches per inch:
Rows per inch:
Size:
Felted or lined?

Knitting Instructions

Yarn: About 2-4 ounces for standard bed; 4-6 ounces for mid gauge. The exact amount depends on the mitten size and stitch type you select.   Mine were knit with about 2 ounces of Jagger Spun 3/8 Mainline in Raspberry.

Mitten: Make 2.  They are both identical.

  1. Make 6 Stitch Stockinette Strip: Set carriage tension to .  Raise 6 needles. Ewrap cast on.  Knit   rows.  Bind off. (Note: if you mark the center row, when you rehang, place the marked on the center in work needle.)
  2. Begin:   Set carriage tension to ;  Raise  needles to work position. With purl side facing you, hang 6 stitch stockinette strip on needles. 
    1. Notes: In most cases, you will be hanging between 8-9 rows on 6 needles, so you'll be skipping rows every now and then while hanging.
    2. The first row you knit will be the cast on row. Be sure to pull the  needles out, push the strip against the gate pegs and move the carriage carefully.  This is a very simple cast on, and counter the edge curl.
  3. Cuff:
    1. Knit to RC= rows.  
    2. Transfer every 3rd stitch to adjacent needle.
    3. Set carriage tension to . 
    4. Knit   rows.  (Optional: carry along a thread of elastic yarn as you knit these rows.)
    5. Set carriage tension to .  Bring out of work needles back into work; fill needles with a bar from the top of an adjacent stitch in the row below (to avoid little holes).
    6. Knit rows.
  4.  Begin Thumb Gusset:
    1. Set row counter to RC=0; 
    2. Increase one stitch at the beginning of each of the next  rows.  (I transfer 3 stitches out using my 3 prong tool, then I fill the empty needle with a stitch taken from the side of the stitch one row below and toward the center of the bed.  This looks pretty and doesn't leave a hole.)
    3. Remove stitches from both edges of the needle bed on waste yarn, leaving the remaining ones on the machine.
  5. Upper Mitten:
    1. Set row counter to RC=0; knit rows.
    2. Transfer every third stitch to an adjacent needle; (if you want a top that's a little less square, transfer every other stitch).  Take empty needles out of work.  Knit 1 row. )
    3. Take off on 1 row of crochet cotton (or ravel cord) and several rows of waste yarn.
    4. Seam top together on machine: Fold mitten in half with knit sides facing each other.  You want to seam the top together this way.  So, raise a sufficient number of needles to hang half the live stitches on the top of the mitten. With the knit side facing you, hang half the stitches. Then fold and hang the other stitches the same needles-- there will be two stitches on each needle. If there is an extra stitch, just double up somewhere.  Remove waste yarn by snipping crochet cotton and pulling, or pulling ravel cord.  If you are right handed, place carriage on left, knit 1 row. Latch tool bind off from right to left.  Turn the seam to the inside. The top is now seamed.
  6. Knit thumb: 
    1. Set row counter to RC=0;
    2. Pick up the thumb stitches from waste yarn plus 2 stitches at seam, hang with wrong side facing.
    3. Knit rows.
    4. Transfer every other stitch to adjacent needle to reduce stitches. Then shift stitches toward center to fill empty needles; Take edge needles out of work.   Knit 1 row.  Break yarn leaving a long tail. Thread a double eyed bodkin tool or tapestry needle, and take stitches off on yarn. 
  7. Option: For lined mittens, raise number of needles for required for cast on.  Lower two edge needles. (this makes the inside smaller than the outside.)  With knit side of mitten facing you, hang the edge of the 5 stitch strip on the  needles.   Then follow directions from step 3 with these changes:
    1. Knit 2 fewer rows in in step 4b. (This makes a shorter thumb gusset with 2 fewer stitches so it fits inside the outer mitten.)
    2. Knit 2 fewer rows in steps 5a. (This makes the inside of the mitten shorter than the outside.)
    3. Pick up 2 fewer stitches in step 6 b.
    4. If you do this, seam the top and the sides just as for the outside mitten. Push inside the outside mitten.
  8. Finish:
    1. Yank mock ribbing lengthwise to set stitches.  Close side seams and thumb using mattress stitch along inside edge and thumb. Tidy loose ends, steam or block as appropriate for you yarn. Wear. (If you need another mitten, make another one.)
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