Lucia's Turtleneck from The Knitting Fiend!

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This page describes the stitch and style details for my turtleneck. Visit the sweater pattern generator page to calculate shaping directions for a turtle neck in your size using your yarn. If you don't "get" the idea of pattern generator, visit one of the easy pattern generators: Hat , Socks, Head band.

Boy is this winter cold!

Gas prices have sky rocketed. I'm at home all day knitting, improving my programs and learning new computer languages. It's pretty fun. But I was getting awfully cold typing at the key board.

So, I decided to knit a warm, cuddly turtleneck. I finished a four days after the ground hog predicted 6 more weeks of winter! I guess it's ok. I'm cozy warm now.

This sweater uses about a pound and a half of Brown Sheep Naturespun fingering weight yarn. I picked a stockinet stitch for the body; the cuffs, bottom welt and the split turtleneck are knit in 2 x 2 rib. I don't know if you can tell from the photo, but sleeves are a faux cable that can be made automatically on the Passap. (It's stitch technique 268.)

This is a Knitting Fiend pattern, so you can duplicate my sweater in your size. First go to your local yarn store and find Brown Sheep Naturespun in fingering weight. Then run my sweater pattern generator to create your shaping directions. You'll find a toggle for the style shown here on the "style" sheet. But you will need to customize the sweater length after using the "estimate" feature.

If you want to duplicate my sweater exactly, you can replicate my style selections, stitch patterns and read my knitting tips. Those are all provided on this page. For complete shaping directions, you must run the sweater generator.

The version of the program launched from the turtle neck page has new features. One new feature lets you specify different stitches for the sleeves and body.

Lucia

Style selections

To create your own pattern, will need to visit the turtleneck page. That page has a short fill out form. When you
send that information, you will be sent a second fill out form. When you send that one, you will be sent the
shaping directions. Here is the information you need to duplicate my sweater.

Page 1:
Make these style choices on the first page:

Units: I used inches, but you can use cm if you wish.
Neckline type: turtleneck
Sleeve length: Long
Sleeve cap type: semi_drop
Body Shaping: Straight.
Estimate yarn requirements. Your choice.
Cuff shaping: Yes. This will make the cuffs nice and tight.
Hip rib shaping: Yes. This will prevent the ribbing from "hugging" too much at the hem.
Bust size: Enter yours.
Hip size: Enter yours.
Neck circumference: Enter yours.
Size range: This setting is used to "guess" the rest of your measurements. I used Woman_Misses.
You can knit this cardigan for a man, woman or child!

After you send this information to my server, you will receive a second form. Read the second form. Knit three swatches and enter your specific swatch gauge. If you don't know how to do this, visit the swatch page.

Verify all your body measurements. If you don't know how to measure, visit the measurement page. Change
numbers to match your measurements. I changed my arm length, because mine are short. I also changed my
shoulder width, because my shoulders are narrow.

If you want a sweater just like mine, there are some important pieces of style information you'll want to modify

Style information to change in the "style table":

Length: 27"
Neck ribbing length: type in 9" this makes a generous collar for the split turtle neck.
Length of ribbing at bottom of sweater: 3.5"
Length of cuff ribbing 3.5"

Scroll down to the "arm table". Find the box that lets you lengthen the sleeve past the wrist. Type in 1.5". This will provide you the length you need for fold back cuffs.

For all other style information, use the defaults. (That is, don't change the numbers. They are fine!)

Swatches showing the stitch patterns.

Stockinet
This swatch to the right shows the reverse side of the main stitch pattern used for the front and back pieces of the sweater. It also shows the 2 x 2 ribbing used as the welt stitch pattern. Both are knit using two strands of Brown Sheep Naturespun fingering weight. Weights are strongly advised.

cable gif
The picture to the left shows the sleeve stitch pattern. It is knit using a single strand of Brown Sheep Naturespun in fingering weight. I used weights during knitting; this helps prevent "ride up" when racking.

The swatch has been hand washed. I find with this technique, the fabric looks better after washing.

Knitting tips.
General: I always knit the back and front, and attach them at one shoulder. Then I attach the neck. Then I make the sleeves and attach them. Then I sew up the rest of the seams and tidy up. I also usually block each piece before sewing. Here are details for each step:
Front & Back.
Knit the front and back before the sleeves or collar.

Cast on the specified number of stitches for the front or back. Knit the number of rows required for the welt. You will probably be instructed to decrease stitches after the welt.
Bind off shoulder stitches. Use the short row method of shaping at the neck and leave the stitches live. (I placed them on waste yarn.). Knit the other piece.

Attach front to back at the left shoulder.

Collar:
Hang the neck stitches over the specified number needles in a manner that will cause the first knit row to be stocking stitch. (I hung on the neck on the front bed with the right side of the work facing me.) Set carriage to knit stockinet. (GX/LX on and E6000). Knit one row. Set needles to knit 2 x 2 ribbing. Transfer every third front bed stitch to the back bed. Fill the raised empty back bed needles. Change locks to N/N. Knit the number of rows required for the collar. Bind off.

Sew right shoulder. Sew the first 3" of the collar to form the split neck.

Sleeves:
Provisional cast on: This creates a nice looking cast on and makes it easier to rehang later on.
Cast on the number of stitches specified for the cuff in a slippery waste yarn. Hang weight after racking back from the first zig-zag row. Take strippers out. Replace strippers after 10 rows or so. Knit the 20 rows. Set the locks on CX/CX. Knit 1 row. With a crochet hook, pull down on the yarn in the feeder to make a string. Holding this yarn, knit another row. (You can let go of the yarn as soon as the machine starts knitting. You just want to make a string.)

Actual cast on.
Pretend there is nothing on the machine. Cast on following machine directions. Knit the number of rows required for the welt. You will probably need to increase stitches after the cuff.

Increase stitches.
Raise all needles in the cuff region on the back bed. Fill empty needles on back bed by transferring the nearest adjacent stitch on the front bed. Keep the needles on the front bed up. Set locks to N/LX. Increase the tension setting to loosen the stitches. Knit 2 row in waste yarn. Now transfer stitches outward distributing them over the number of stitches required for the cuff. (I use the decker combs, but some people like to drop the work and rehang.) Try to distribute the increases fairly evenly over the cuffs. Unknit the two rows of waste yarn.

Hit the st. pattern A button. Perform the two set up rows. Fill any empty needles on the front bed by catching a loop of a lower adjacent stitch. Knit the sleeve increasing as instructed. Bind off.

Remove the CX/CX rows by snipping the "thread" and pulling. If you used a slippery yarn, the CX row should just pull out.

Attach top of sleeve to the armholes. Sew the front to back from the hem to the sudden armhole bind off. Sew the very top of the sleeves to the armhole bind off area. (On a woman this will be about the top 1" of the sleeve attached to the armhole bind off. Then sew the sleeves seams to each other.

Good luck!
Lucia

Special thanks to my father in law Jim for taking my picture.

Knit away, fiends,
Lucia

Swatches showing the stitch patterns.
This swatch to the right shows the reverse side of the main stitch pattern used for the front and back pieces of the sweater. It also shows the 2 x 2 ribbing used as the welt stitch pattern. Both are knit using two strands of Brown Sheep Naturespun fingering weight. Weights are strongly advised. The picture to the left shows the sleeve stitch pattern. It is knit using a single strand of Brown Sheep Naturespun in fingering weight. I used weights during knitting; this helps prevent "ride up" when racking. The swatch has been hand washed. I find with this technique, the fabric looks better after washing.
Knitting tips. General: I always knit the back and front, and attach them at one shoulder. Then I attach the neck. Then I make the sleeves and attach them. Then I sew up the rest of the seams and tidy up. I also usually block each piece before sewing. Here are details for each step: Front & Back. Knit the front and back before the sleeves or collar. Cast on the specified number of stitches for the front or back. Knit the number of rows required for the welt. You will probably be instructed to decrease stitches after the welt. Bind off shoulder stitches. Use the short row method of shaping at the neck and leave the stitches live. (I placed them on waste yarn.). Knit the other piece. Attach front to back at the left shoulder. Collar: Hang the neck stitches over the specified number needles in a manner that will cause the first knit row to be stocking stitch. (I hung on the neck on the front bed with the right side of the work facing me.) Set carriage to knit stockinet. (GX/LX on and E6000). Knit one row. Set needles to knit 2 x 2 ribbing. Transfer every third front bed stitch to the back bed. Fill the raised empty back bed needles. Change locks to N/N. Knit the number of rows required for the collar. Bind off. Sew right shoulder. Sew the first 3" of the collar to form the split neck. Sleeves: Provisional cast on: This creates a nice looking cast on and makes it easier to rehang later on. Cast on the number of stitches specified for the cuff in a slippery waste yarn. Hang weight after racking back from the first zig-zag row. Take strippers out. Replace strippers after 10 rows or so. Knit the 20 rows. Set the locks on CX/CX. Knit 1 row. With a crochet hook, pull down on the yarn in the feeder to make a string. Holding this yarn, knit another row. (You can let go of the yarn as soon as the machine starts knitting. You just want to make a string.) Actual cast on. Pretend there is nothing on the machine. Cast on following machine directions. Knit the number of rows required for the welt. You will probably need to increase stitches after the cuff. Increase stitches. Raise all needles in the cuff region on the back bed. Fill empty needles on back bed by transferring the nearest adjacent stitch on the front bed. Keep the needles on the front bed up. Set locks to N/LX. Increase the tension setting to loosen the stitches. Knit 2 row in waste yarn. Now transfer stitches outward distributing them over the number of stitches required for the cuff. (I use the decker combs, but some people like to drop the work and rehang.) Try to distribute the increases fairly evenly over the cuffs. Unknit the two rows of waste yarn. Hit the st. pattern A button. Perform the two set up rows. Fill any empty needles on the front bed by catching a loop of a lower adjacent stitch. Knit the sleeve increasing as instructed. Bind off. Remove the CX/CX rows by snipping the "thread" and pulling. If you used a slippery yarn, the CX row should just pull out. Attach top of sleeve to the armholes. Sew the front to back from the hem to the sudden armhole bind off. Sew the very top of the sleeves to the armhole bind off area. (On a woman this will be about the top 1" of the sleeve attached to the armhole bind off. Then sew the sleeves seams to each other. Good luck! Lucia
Special thanks to my father in law Jim for taking my picture. Knit away, fiends, Lucia