Poncho I: Type: Slim Hand Knit Top Down

Or the "doll poncho" but you can make it adult size!

View whole site, my blog, my other ponchos, off site poncho links.

It' s Wednesday, Feb. 4, 2004. Was it Monday? Charlene asked for a poncho design....

We got discussing ponchos and I've started to code a poncho pattern generator. This is the first poncho I designed. I test knit it on my doll yesterday. It looks pretty cute. (Although, if you look carefully, you'll see I tried two different increase methods. The instructions tell you to use the one that doesn't leave little holes....)

I know this looks like a doll poncho, but you can design your own poncho, in your own size, using the yarn of your choice by changing the numbers in the entry form below.

Strangely, the poncho design actually based on misunderstanding the type of poncho Charlene wanted! She wanted one knit sideways, which will be Poncho II.

To make sure my reasoning works, I am test knitting all these poncho's for my doll. Otherwise, I just don't have enough time or money to spend on the yarn for all the ponchos. Besides, what if one of them comes out wrong? I've knit myself four ponchos now. That's enough!

This poncho is:

Hand Knit. (It can be machine knit, but most people will run out of needles. You also need to transfer stitches using the garter bar. I hate doing that! )
Slim fitting (as ponchos go), with darts at the shoulders.
Knit from top down.
Uses at least 4 rows of garter stitch at the hem and neck. (But you can change that to something else if you want.)

Remember: Like all patterns spit out by my generators, this is mostly shaping directions. You decide how you are going to increase, decrease etc. I'll make some suggestions, but they won't be detailed. You pick your yarn, needles etc.

I haven't made a schematic of this poncho. However, the schematic would be very similar to the schematic for Charlene's poncho. You can find them schematics at the bottom of Charlene's poncho page. The difference is this poncho is knit from the top down to the hem and it is always a "slim" two piece poncho. (I haven't coded any other flare angles. The only two that would be easy to HK from the top down are "slim" and "wide"; "medium" and "full" would require a slightly different approach than used with this generator).

Lucia

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Enter Data for Your Poncho

You must modify the following data to match the gauge and shape you want! Just change the numbers, and click "calculate" when you are finished.

Enter Your Gauge Swatch Information
Main stitch pattern: Used for most of the poncho	Welt stitch pattern: Used for the neck and hem. I have you enter the welt stitch gauge to let the program instruct you to reduce stitches for the neck and hem when you use a wide stitch like Garter stitch. if you use a stitch that draws in, like ribbing, I ignore the welt stitch gauge. The welt row gauge is used to make sure the lengths are right. If you want a simple to knit pattern that will probably fit just fine, enter the same gauges you used for the main stitch! (Actually, when I use garter stitch, I guess that it has 20% fewer stitches/inch an 20% more rows per inch. I assume the opposite for ribbing.)
Main stitch pattern name:	Welt stitch pattern name:
Stitches per inch:	Stitches per inch:
Rows per inch:	Rows per inch:

Replace my shape parameters with Your Poncho Shape Parameters
Click these if you need help with sizes: adult sizes, child sizes.
Width of trapezoid at neck : inches.	The opening for your head will be twice this value. Make sure your head fits through the hole! Because knitting stretches, my 22" head can often fit through an 18" hole. )
Your approximate shoulder width: inches.	I'm a 5'4" woman and my shoulders are about 14.5" wide, but make ponchos 15" wide to fit over sweaters. Make them wider to fit over heavy clothes.
Length of Poncho along diagonal seam: inches.	This will be the length from the neck to the hem along the front of the poncho.)
Length of "welt" at neck: inches	You specify a long or short collar. The turtleneck on the poncho at linda's craftique is 8-10" long. I will not let you knit the collar less than 4 rows deep.
Length of "welt" at hem: inches	Make this pretty short. I'd pick about 1/2". I will not let you knit it less than 4 rows deep. (The program takes care of that.)

To calculate the results, click the button!

Results

Don't try to edit anything below this point. If you want to change them, change values in the table above. The summary tables are for informational purposes only.

Knitting Directions:

The poncho is made from two major pieces that are almost trapezoids; these major two pieces are are sewn together on long diagonal edge to make one piece. Afterward you pick up the neck stitches and knit the neck trim or collar. Finally, sew the other diagonal edge and neck together. Finish the ends and you are done.

Unfortunately, simple trapezoids make the poncho too pointy at the neck. To get rid of the pointyness, the poncho needs a dart in the shoulder.

Please read the directions from beginning to end. Make sure you understand them. The values should all add up!

Here are some general tips for Hand Knitters:

If you don't know how to knit very well, you should have someone help you pick out cast on and increase methods.
I cast on using the "loop cast on" described in Knitting Without Tears by Elizabeth Zimmerman. I like to use this when I am going to pick up stitches from the cast on at some later point. You can also use the "invisible cast on". It's more beautiful, but but more difficult to work.
I increase 1 stitch at both edges sides of stockinet by knitting 2 stitches, "Make 1", knitting across until there are only 2 stitches left, "make 1" and then knitting the final 2 stitches. Consult a knitting book for various increase methods. "Make 1" is also dedcribed in Knitting Without Tears. I can "make 1" from either the knit or purl side of stockinet, and it's inconspicuous provided you twist the pick up strand as suggested by Mrs. Zimmerman.
If you like that cable on Linda's poncho, why not work the increase 7 stitches from the edge instead of 2 discussed above? Then, knit 2 stitches, work a cable cross pattern over 4 stitches, knit 1 stitch and then "make 1"? You'll get a pair of cables down the front and back instead of 1 cable. It will probably look really pretty. Of course, this only works on a poncho for a grown woman. I couldn't fit a cable cross in on a tiny doll's poncho.
Here's advise about the shoulder darts. You will be told to use a stitch markers. Do so! Then you can increase two stitches the shoulder dart as follows:

Start the row, performing any shaping required on the outside edge,
Knit across the row until 3 stitches remain before the marker. Make 1, K1, Make 1, K2. You have now reached the marker.
Slip the marker. K2, Make 1, K1, Make 1, knit across the row finishing with whatever shaping is required at the outside edge.

To increase one stitch at the shoulder dart:

Start the row, performing any shaping is required on the outside edge.
Knit across the row until 2 stitches remain before the marker. Make 1, K2. You have now reached the marker.
Slip the marker. K2, Make 1, knit across the row finishing with whatever shaping is required at the outside edge.

Very clever hand knitters will figure out that they can re-organize the knitting directions and knit the poncho in one single piece. ( To see a very similar poncho knit in one piece, visit Danielle Arviso's page!) It's easy, but you're on your own. I am not writing another hand knit version of this same shape!
Cumulative row counts are given for the benefit of machine knitters. You might be able to use them if you want, but I generally don't count rows when hand knitting.
The length of the piece is measured from the cast on down along a column of stitches to the hem. It is not measured along the diagonal. The diagonal is longer.

Here are some general tips for Machine Knitters who want to adapt the pattern:

You can probably make this in two pieces as described for a doll of a small child.
You probably can't make this in two pieces for an adult because you won't have enough needles. You may be able to make it in four pieces. You would do this by splitting each piece into two mirror image pieces, and then seaming along the shoulders. If you split the trapezoid in two, add one extra stitch on the shoulder edge to permit seaming. Also, make sure you make mirror images!
The row counts should help you adapt the shaping instructions.
Read the tips for hand knitters might help you get your creative juices flowing.
I would cast on in waste yarn, knit a row with ravel cord or some slippery yarn and then start knitting. You will need to knit two rows before the first increase row. The increases will be made when the carriage is on the right. Later, you can pick up the neck stitches from the first row of knitting.
Machine knitters can increase 1 stitch at both edges of a row by moving the edge stitch at each side over one needle, lifting a stitch to fill the needle with a loop from the row below. Then knit the row. The knit the number of rows specified.
Machine knitters must use a garter bar to increase at the shoulders. To increase 2 stitches on either side of the shoulder, I would identify the center of the work between needles (1,1), then shift over leaving needle 3 and 5 empty. Then fill the needles with a loop from the row below. You need to do this on both sides. To increase 1 stitch, leave needle 3 only empty. Then knit the row.
The length of the piece is give for the benefit of the hand knitters.

Poncho Side:

Make two.
Narrative: When you knit this piece you will begin by increasing at both edges and the center of the work. The center increase are a shoulder dart and prevent the neck from being a huge unattractive cone. When you do this you will increase 1 stitch every two rows on both outside edges and stitches every two rows on on either side of the center .

Cast on stitches. Work 2 rows in stitch; end right side facing. While knitting the first or second row, place a row marker between the center stitches ( stitches on either side of the marker).
First shoulder shaping. Repeat the instruction between **'s times:

** While knitting next row, increase 1 stitch on both edges, and increase stitches at the center. (Refer to note about increasing stitches at the edge and center). Knit one row without shaping. **
(Note: What is happened when you followed the instruction is you knit two rows and increased, stitches each repeat.)

First shaping complete. There are stitches with stitches on each side of marker and rows.
Second shoulder shaping. Repeat the instruction between **'s times:

** While knitting next row, increase 1 stitch on both outside outside edges, and one stitches at the center. (Refer to note about increasing stitches at the edge and center). Knit row without shaping. **
(Note: what is happened is you knit rows knit and increased 4 stitches each repeat.)

Shoulder shaping complete. There are stitches ( on each side of marker) and rows

Overview. You will now work on the body which requires increase stitches at each side over rows as follows:
Repeat the following instruction between **'s until work measures inches.

** While knitting the next row, increase 1 stitch on both edges, then knit 1 row without shaping. ** (Rows since cast on =; there are stitches.)

Begin hem. Change to stitch.
Reduce stitches evenly across row. (This is to prevent flaring.)
Knit until hem measures inches (approximately rows.)
Bind off.
One "trapezoid" done. Make a second trapezoid.
After you finish both sides, sew the two pieces together along one diagonal edge.
The neck is at the short edge of the big piece now. Starting at one unsewn diagonal edge, pick up stitches along the neck (short) edge of one piece trapezoid, distributing stitches evenly between the edge and the seam, then pick up the same number along the neck edge of the other seam distributing evenly.
Knit in stitch for rows. (Or until neck welt measures inches long.)
Bind off all stitches.
Sew the other diagonal seam and finish off all loose ends.
If you feel like adding fringe, add fringe!

The information below here is for information purposes only. I use it to compare poncho shaoes from one generator to another. You do not need to understand this to knit a good poncho!

Summary of Shape Data I Calculated.

Alpha This is the flare angle. The flare angle depends only on your stitch and row gauge. You can't change it unless you pick another stitch type.

Narrow ponchos knit in stockinet like the one at lindacraftique usually flare between 30 and 35 degrees.

Height of trapezoid: inches.
This the sleeve length of your poncho. You can increase it by increasing the diagonal length. You can increase it a little by making the neck narrower (but that's a silly way to change it.)

Width of one trapezoid at hem: inches.
The full hem is twice this width.

Delta degrees
This describes the angle on the "shoulder" side of the first little piece you make. Honestly, you probably don't give a hoot about this angle. However, it is angle of the shoulder dart for your poncho as seen when knit. It depends on your stitch gauge.

Beta (shoulder angle): degrees.

This is the shoulder angle as measured from the horizontal when the poncho is knit. This value is important, but you can't change it. It depends on your stitch gauge.

Slim poncho's require darts. The purpose of the shoulder dart is to prevent the neck on the poncho from becoming a cone.

For a "very good" poncho design that drapes very nicely on your shoulders, Beta falls between 5 and 15 degrees. If beta falls between 0 and 30 degrees, it's a "pretty good" poncho. (In fact, most wide ponchos just have Beta=0). I estimate that the poncho at lidacraftique has a shoulder angle between 20 -25 degrees .

Larger angles make the neck look like a cone. (This is what makes the devotee's of wide ponchos tell you slim ponchos don't fit.)
Negative angles make it look line a cone-- but drop down!

Summary of Shape Data I Calculated.
Alpha	This is the flare angle. The flare angle depends only on your stitch and row gauge. You can't change it unless you pick another stitch type. Narrow ponchos knit in stockinet like the one at lindacraftique usually flare between 30 and 35 degrees.
Height of trapezoid: inches.	This the sleeve length of your poncho. You can increase it by increasing the diagonal length. You can increase it a little by making the neck narrower (but that's a silly way to change it.)
Width of one trapezoid at hem: inches.	The full hem is twice this width.
Delta degrees This describes the angle on the "shoulder" side of the first little piece you make.	Honestly, you probably don't give a hoot about this angle. However, it is angle of the shoulder dart for your poncho as seen when knit. It depends on your stitch gauge.
Beta (shoulder angle): degrees.	This is the shoulder angle as measured from the horizontal when the poncho is knit. This value is important, but you can't change it. It depends on your stitch gauge. Slim poncho's require darts. The purpose of the shoulder dart is to prevent the neck on the poncho from becoming a cone. For a "very good" poncho design that drapes very nicely on your shoulders, Beta falls between 5 and 15 degrees. If beta falls between 0 and 30 degrees, it's a "pretty good" poncho. (In fact, most wide ponchos just have Beta=0). I estimate that the poncho at lidacraftique has a shoulder angle between 20 -25 degrees . Larger angles make the neck look like a cone. (This is what makes the devotee's of wide ponchos tell you slim ponchos don't fit.) Negative angles make it look line a cone-- but drop down!

Stitch Summary table

Location	Stitches	Width	Rows	Length
Cast on at neck	stitches.	inches	0 rows	0 inches.
End of first shaping	stitches.	inches	rows.	inches.
End of shoulder shaping	stitches.	inches.	rows.	inches.
End of Body Shaping	stitches.	inches.	rows.	inches.
Bind off Hem	stitches.	inches.	rows.	inches.

Note: The final lengths may be off off by two rows due to rounding. If your welt stitch draws in a lot, the width after the hem will narrower than the width above the hem. Otherwise, the final two widths will be similar, but not necessarily identical.

All images, programs and text at this site are copyrighted. Permission is given to knit garments and swatches from the directions provided. This pattern may be printed for individual personal use, provided the copyright statement remains intact. Patterns are available without charge at Lucia Liljegren's web pages, and cannot be resold. @copyright 2004, Lucia Liljegren