//================ function raglanFinishing(){ // The rest ================================================== stuff +="

Rest of the sweater: <\/h2>"; stuff +="You are going to start knitting repeating the whole raglan shaping process over again. You will starf following directions starting from the center front, except<\/span> omitting any neck shaping you may have worked.
"; stuff +="
  1. Set row counter to zero RC=0.
    <\/li>"; stuff +="
  2. Work "+neckRowsP1+ " rows. (RC= "+neckRowsP1+". This replaces the V neck shaping on the front.)<\/li>"; stuff +="
  3. Follow directions for front from 'Raglan shaping' which begins after the instructions Vneck shaping.You will not need to adjust the row counter.)<\/li>"; stuff +="
  4. Work a second sleeve.<\/li>"; stuff +="
  5. You will now start the front. Begin by following directions for the back, until you just finish the raglan increases. That is stop when you reach RC = " +totSleeveShapeRows +" of 'the back' (which is really now, the front.) <\/li>"; patternWindow.document.writeln(stuff); stuff =""; // === the V neck. stuff +="
  6. Shape the V neck<\/li>"; if( 0< neckNeedles ){ stuff +="
      "; if(0
      • Move "+ fastNeedles+ " needles on right hand side from work position (B) to NWP(E).<\/li><\/ul>
      • Knit 1 row, wrap needle, knit 1 row. (COL)<\/li> "; } if(0
        • Move "+slowNeedles+ " needles on far right hand side from work position (B) to NWP(E).<\/li>
        • Knit 1 row, wrap needle, knit 1 row. (COL)
        "; } stuff +="
      • Set carriage to full knitting (N on Brother). Knit 1 row; all needles will knit. (RC= "+RCunderArm+" ; end COR)
        • "; stuff +="<\/ol>"; } else{ stuff +="
          "; stuff +="
        1. The neck is unshaped. Knit to RC= "+RCunderArm+" ; end COR; <\/li>" ; } patternWindow.document.writeln(stuff); stuff =""; // hung hem. Note that this option only makes sense if they aren't workign a Vneck. I'm using it for my hoodie. if( 0<\/li>"; patternWindow.document.writeln(stuff); stuff =""; } // === really finishing. stuff +="
        2. Bind off.<\/li>"; stuff +="
        3. Breathe a sigh of relief. Smile when you see that there are very few seams to sew!<\/li><\/ol>"; patternWindow.document.writeln(stuff); stuff =""; stuff +="

          Finishing up<\/H2>"; patternWindow.document.writeln(stuff); stuff =""; stuff +="
            "; stuff +="
          1. Knit cuff trim:
            2. "; stuff +="
              "; stuff +="
            1. You asked for "+ sleeveRibLength + " inch deep '"+notSnugCuff+"' cuffs and a "+bodyRibLength + " inch deep '" + notSnugHem + "' hem on the body. With these settings, if the cuffs were knit in stockinette, the cuff trim would be " +cuffRibWidth+" inches wide and the body trim would be "+totalHemRibWidth +" inches wide.<\/li>"; if(p.buttonOrHem.selectedIndex==0){ stuff +="
            2. The buttonband adds "+ p.buttonBandWidth.value + " inches to the hem width.<\/li>" } if(p.rollOrRib.selectedIndex==0){ stuff +="
            3. Note: I am calculating the number of stitches of ribbing based on the stitch and row gauge in stockinette<\/em>. I recommend you 2x2 ribbing two tension settings tighter than you knit the stockinette. Since I did not request a ribbing swatch, I am estimating the number or rows and stitches. This usually works. However, if you like your ribbing looser or tighter than average, or knit an different type of ribbing, you may wish to adjust the number or rows or stitches in the ribbing based on knitting an actual ribbing swatch. <\/li>"; } stuff +="
            4. Knit cuffs. Raise "+cuffRibStitches +" needles on one bed of the machine. Hang cuff on machine. Knit 1 row. Set carriage two tension settings tighter than you used for stockinette.<\/li>"; if(p.rollOrRib.selectedIndex==0){ stuff +="
            5. For ribbing: Transfer stitch on every third needle to opposite bed and set up for ribbing following your manual instructions. Set up for knitting 2 x 2 ribbing, filling any empty needles.<\/li> ";} stuff +="
            6. Knit "+ cuffRibRows+ " rows. If you find it easier to bind off with the carriage on the other side, knit 1 more row. Bind off.<\/li>"; stuff +="
            7. Repeat for other sleeve.<\/li><\/ol>"; stuff +="
            8. You are about to remove the waste yarn at the sides of the sleeve. However, when you hang the sweater hem to attach the ribbing, you will want to remember the rows where the location of the side was. So, place a thread or yarn marker along side the waste yarn and near the hem. <\/li>
            9. Remove waste yarn holding one sleeve to the body: On inside of sweater, carefully snip the waste yarn at one side seam. Snip in several places, and the edges. Pull thread to remove the waste yarn. Raise needles on machine and with knit side you, hang the loops from the stitches on one edge of the sleeve. Fold and hang the loops from the other edge. Pull needles to E. Snip waste yarn carefully and remove being careful not to drop the sleeves off the needles. If you are right handed, place carriage on left. Thread carriage, push work against gatepegs, and knit 1 row. Latchtool bind off. (If you are left handed, you might want to place carriage on right so you can bind off from left to right.) <\/li>"; stuff +="
            10. Mattress stitch holes under arms closed and mattress stitch cuffs closed.<\/li>"; stuff +="
            11. Attach trim to body hem. <\/li>"; stuff +="
                "; stuff +="
              1. Raise "+backRibStitches +" needles on one of the beds. Hang back of sweater between side seams. Knit 1 row. <\/li>"; if(p.rollOrRib.selectedIndex==0){ stuff +="
              2. For rib: Transfer stitch on every third needle to opposite bed and set up for ribbing following your manual instructions. Set up for knitting 2 x 2 ribbing, filling any empty needles. <\/li>"; } stuff +="
              3. Knit "+ bodyRibRows+" rows.<\/li>"; stuff +="
              4. Repeat to make trim on both sides of the front. When knitting front trim, hang between center front and side seam, and raise only "+frontRibStitches +" needles <\/li>"; stuff +="
              5. Mattress stitch trim edges to close.<\/li>"; stuff +="<\/ol>"; if(p.buttonOrHem.selectedIndex==0){ stuff +="
              6. Make button bands. <\/li>"; stuff +="The following directions assume you know how to work a button hole. Detailed, illustrated directions to knit button holes are provided two separate web pages. Button bands<\/a> and how to make buttonholes<\/a>.
                I use Roz Porter's method. These instructions only tell you how many stitches to cast on, and were to work the holes.
                "; stuff +="
                  "; stuff +="
                1. Cast on "+bandStitches+" stitches. Knit a "+totalButtonRows+" row long strip placing " + fourNeedles +" needle wide button holes on the following "+ numButtons+ " rows: <\/li>"; stuff +="
                2. "+buttonHoleRows+"<\/li>
                3. "+markRows+"<\/li> <\/ol>"; } stuff +="<\/ol>"; patternWindow.document.writeln(stuff); stuff =""; stuff +="<\/li><\/ol>"; patternWindow.document.writeln(stuff); stuff =""; // optional hood if(p.hood.selectedIndex==1){hoodDirections()} }