//================ function halterDirections(){ raglanCalcs(); patternWindow= window.open('','rowStitch','toolbar=yes, location=yes, scrollbars=yes, resizable=yes, width=400, height=500, left=0,top=0') patternWindow.document.write("

Knitting Directions For Halter Top.

") patternWindow.document.writeln("Author / Designer : Lucia Liljegren.
") // intro stuff="
These directions were created based on user supplied information entered in the design form of my pattern generator located at "+ window.location.href +" on "+ currentDate +" . Additional information, including schematics, are available on the design page and a number of supporting web pages. I advise you print out the design form for your records. Code and general halter design by Lucia Liljegren, The Knitting Fiend.<\/i> "; stuff +='

'+ p.tooFewStitches.value+ '<\/p>'; patternWindow.document.writeln(stuff); stuff=""; // Preliminaries stuff+="

Preliminaries<\/h2>"; stuff+="
Size is "+misses + " "+ missesSize +". Print out the design web page for further details.

You must achieve both the row and stitch gauge or your sweater may not fit and the yardage estimate will be incorrect. I advise double checking your gauge as you knit. Also, I do hope you washed your swatch. These directions encourage you to fit as you knit; if this yarn shrinks after washing, you need to know that. "; stuff+="Stitch Gauge: "+ Math.round(mainStIn*100)/100 +" st/inch; "+ Math.round( mainRowIn*100)/100 +" row/inch in whatever pattern you picked as your main stitch pattern after you wash, dry and block the swatch. "; stuff += shrinks; stuff+="

Materials: Straight needle in lengths required to achieve gauge. One set of double pointed needles. "; /* if(trimStitch=="rib"){ oneByOneRib="1 x 1 rib"; firstRow="then repeat (p1, k1)"; } else { oneByOneRib = "garter stitch"; firstRow="then knit all stitches"; } stuff+="

Option The program consistently suggests you knit "+oneByOneRib+" for the trim. You may substitute any non curling stitch pattern, including rib, garter or seed stitch."; */ patternWindow.document.writeln(stuff);stuff=""; // ============ stuff = "

Top<\/h2>"; stuff+= "
You will knit in stockinette. Knit all right side facing rows and purl all wrong side facing rows. Always slip the first stitch on each row.
" stuff+= "
Casing<\/b>"; stuff+= "
  1. Provisional cast on " + castOn + " stitches. Knit " + Math.round(2*rowsPlacket) + " rows. Pick up stitches from cast on needle. Fold so purl sides are facing each other. Hold both needles parallel, and insert tip of working needle into a stitch on each needle. Knit through both stitches. (This seams the two edges and forms a channel. End with " + castOn + " stitches on needle. Purl 1 row; turn work, knit side is facing. Hang a marker, and begin counting rows starting with the row after the marker.<\/li>"; stuff+= "<\/ol>
    Shaped Portion<\/b>
    "; stuff+= "Discussion: You will increase a total of " + incStitches + " stitches over " + rows + " rows by periodically working increase rows on the knit side facing row as follows: Slip 1 stitch, knit 1 stitch, m1, work until 2 stitches remains in row, m1, k2. ('m1' stands for 'make 1'.) This places increases at the edge of the work."; if(darts=="yes") { ifYouhaveNot=" There should be "; stuff+= "You will also need to start working darts on row " + rowsToDart +"; this occurs before you finish increasing at the edges. So, read ahead for the dreaded 'meanwhile'."; } else{ ifYouhaveNot="If you haven't begun the darts, there should be"; } stuff+= "
    1. Shape Edges
      2. "; stuff+= "
        "; if(0 < halfFastTimes){ stuff+= "
      1. Do the following " +halfFastTimes+ " times: **Work one increase row. Work "+ fastIncSleeve +" row even. ** ("+ ifYouhaveNot +stitchesAfterHalfFast+" stitches on the needle.)<\/li> "; } if(0 < slowTimes){ stuff+= "
      2. Do the following " +slowTimes+ " times: **Work one increase row. Work "+ slowIncSleeve +" rows even. ** ( "+ ifYouhaveNot+ stitchesAfterThisSlow+" stitches on the needle.<\/li> "; } if(0 < secondHalfFastTimes){ stuff+= "
      3. Do the following " +secondHalfFastTimes+ " times: **Work one increase row. Work "+ fastIncSleeve +" row even. ** <\/li> "; } stuff+= "<\/ol>"; if(darts=="yes"){ stuff+= "
      4. Shape darts: When you reach row " + rowsToDart +" locate the center "+ centerDartStitches+" stitches. Place stitch markers on either side of these stitches. Dart decreases will be formed on either side of the stitch just inside the stitch markers. Hold the halter with the top edge where you plan to wear it. Ideally, the first decrease should fall about 1/4 to 1/2 inch below the fullest part of your breast, and the darts should point to the fullest part of each breast. Decide if you like the location of the ring markers. If you don't move the ring markers in or out. If you want the darts lower, knit a few more rows. ( I knit 2 extra rows to lower my darts a bit.) Warning: If this yarn shrinks, you must consider that when evaluating the fit as you knit.
        Once you have darts points where you would like the darts to point, knit a dart on either side of the center dart stitch as follows<\/li>"; stuff+= "
        1. Begin knit side facing. Work across row until you there are 2 stitches reamining before the first stitch marker; k2tog, slip marker, slip a stitch, ssk, work to next marker, k2 tog, slip maker, ssk, work to end of row. Repeat every "+rowsBewteenDartInc +" rows until you finish all side shaping. <\/li><\/ol>"; } stuff+= "
        2. The number of stitches remaining depends on whether or not you worked the darts where I suggested. If you worked darts exactly where I suggested, there should be "+ realBindOff +" stitches on the needle. If you skipped the darts, there should be " +bindOff + " stitches on the needle; The length from the cast on should be "+Math.round(mult(totalLength,lengthBeforeRatio)*10)/10 +" inches"; if(lengthBeforeRatio != 1){ stuff+= "; after you wash the halter, the length from the cast on to this point will be "+ Math.round(totalLength*10)/10 + " inches"; } bearInMind=""; if(darts=="yes") { bearInMind=", bear in mind the bottom will add "+ bottomShapeRows +" rows below the bust "; } stuff+= "
        3. Hold the halter up to your chest " + bearInMind + " and decide whether or not it's deep enough to curve provide you the bust coverage you want. If you'd like more length, knit a few more rows, continue to increase at outside edges and decrease for darts as you do this. <\/li>"; if(darts=="yes") { stuff+= "<\/li><\/ol> "; stuff+= "
          Bottom Shaping:
          You will shape the bottom of the halter using short rows. This provides the extra length needed below the darts so the halter doesn't ride up and reveal too much."; stuff+= "
          1. Begin knit side facing. Knit across row, to second bust dart marker. Slip marker, bring yarn to front of work as to purl, slip next stitch, bring yarn to back as to knit. Turn work. (This is a wrap and turn. You are now beginning the purl row.) Slip the first stitch, purl until you reach the bust dart marker. Slip the marker, slip the next stitch, Turn work. Bring yarn forwards as to purl. Slip stitch. Bring yarn back as to knit. (This is a wrap and turn. You have just worked two short rows.)<\/li> "; stuff+= "
          2. Knit side is facing. Work up to the stitch you wrapped when working the previous knit side facing row, knit " +rowsBewteenDartInc + "more stitches, wrap and turn. Purl up to stitch you wrapped when working the previous purl side facing row. Purl " +rowsBewteenDartInc + " more stitches, wrap and turn.<\/li>"; stuff+= "
          3. Repeat the previous two rows, always increasing the number of stitches you knit until fewer than "+ mult(rowsBewteenDartInc,2) + " stitches remain on the working needle when you are ready to wrap and turn. On that row, knit to the end of the row. Turn, purl back to the end of the row. <\/li>"; } stuff+= "
          4. Leave stitches on needle. <\/li> "; stuff+= "<\/li><\/ol> "; stuff+= "<\/ol>"; patternWindow.document.writeln(stuff);stuff=""; stuff+= "<\/ol> "; stuff+= "
            Knit I cord strap and neck strap <\/b>
            1. Use 2 double pointed needles (DPNs) 2 diameter sizes smaller than for main piece. Cast on 3 stitches. Knit across row. Do not turn. Slide stitches to right tip of DPN. Pull yarn firmly and knit across row. Repeat until strap measures "+Math.round(p.bottomWidth.value,0.8) + " inches in length.<\/li>"; stuff+= "
            2. Slide stitches onto circular needle holding body stitches. <\/li>
            3. **Pull strand tight, knit 2 stitches. Slip next I Cord stitch, slip body stitch. Knit slipped stitches together. (This seams the I Cord to the body stitches and eats up one body stitch.) Slip the three stitches on the double pointed needle back onto the circular needle,** repeat from **. <\/li>
            4. Continue until all body stitches have been consumed. <\/li>"; stuff+= "
            5. Go back to knitting detached I cord, until this side of strap is as long as the other strap. Anchor loops. <\/li> "; stuff+= "
            6. Knit "+ Math.round(mult(p.bottomWidth.value,1.5)) +" inches of I cord for neck strap. Hold it around you neck and decide whether it's long enough. If not, knit it a bit longer. When it's the length you like, break yarn and anchor. <\/li>"; stuff+= "<\/li><\/ol> " ; // Front ========================================================================= stuff += "Finish Up:<\/b>
              "; stuff+= "
              1. Weave in loose ends and tidy up. Block as appropriate for your yarn. Wear. Send me a photo and let me show you off at my blog. <\/li><\/ol>"; stuff+= "<\/ol>"; patternWindow.document.writeln(stuff);stuff=""; yarnUsedText(); /* stuff+= "
                1. <\/li>"; stuff+= "
                2. Test Line<\/li>" */ stuff+= "
                  Copyright, Lucia Liljegren 2005
                  You may print an individual copy directly from my site, and knit your sweater. No other form of reproduction or redistribution permitted."; patternWindow.document.writeln(stuff);stuff=""; patternWindow.document.write("<\/BODY><\/HEAD><\/HTML>") patternWindow.document.close(); }