Take Me Out to the Ball Game Sweater Pattern

Hand knit sweater pattern by Lucia Liljegren, The Knitting Fiend.
Machine knit raglans here and here.

AKA: Seamless raglan sweater, hand knit bottom to top. Knitting completed March 28, 2005.

If you like raglan sweaters, you'll probably want to see my Husband Sweater, which uses the same code I use for this sweater. Other sweater styles are illustrated at my sweater pattern index page. Get updates about my new patterns and generators at my blog.
needs buttons

Here is a list of features available with this generator:

The toggles are preset for the style and size shown.
As always, you enter your stitch and row gauge. You can knit out of any yarn weight, from fingering to chunky.
Shape: Raglan pull over knit bottom to top.
Crew: You can pull a toggle and change that to Polo neck.
The yarn estimator is set to stockinette. You can change that to Broken Rib Stitch.
The size is set to Woman's size 8. You can change that to Women's 4-22; Men's 32-50, children's 2-14 or 18" doll. .
The cuffs neck ahd hem on mine are garter stitch, you can change that to rib.
It's free. Of course, you can donate to maintain the site.
Click this pop up pattern button to get your pattern. (I advise clicking it now. Really.)
If the window doesn't pop up, scroll to the bottom and read the final instructions about pop-up windows.
This pattern generator is a program that creates a pattern. If you want to customize for your size, your yarn or anything else, click the go-away box on the pattern window that popped up. Then, scroll down, and make changes. Then click any the pop-up window button you find on this page. opening. That will create your customized pattern.

If you've used my pattern generators, you know you can get directions in nearly any gauge and use the needle diameter you think is appropriate. But, some of you may want to imitate my sweater. Here is what I used for the sweater illustrated on this page:

2 one pound cones of Lion Brand Kitchen Cotton, knit double stranded. I bought mine at Jo-Ann Fabrics in Naperville. Lion Brand Kitchen cotton has 755 yds/ lb; Lion Brand recommends knitting a gauge of 4 st/in on their web page, but the cone I bought said 5 st/in. I liked the gauge of 3.5 st/in when I knit double stranded.
Denise circular needles with size 9 tips attached for main stitch and size 7 for trim. This let me change the length of the cable. It needs to be very long when you put all the stitches on the yoke; smaller is better when you knit the top of the sleeves.
Crystal Palace double pointed needles for the cuffs and bottom of the sleeves.
Tapestry needle to sew the underarms and close the neck placket.
A crochet hook to fix occasional mistakes.
Women's size 8, but I shortened the body and sleeves 2" because I am short waisted, have short arms, and prefer my sleeves and sweaters a bit short.

Blog pages discussing aspects of this sweater:

Using yarn double stranded. Using yarn double stranded often saves money because you have more yarns to select from.

Lucia

Donation Requested

If you like and use my patterns, consider donating so I can maintain the site, buy yarn and make more generators.

The Pattern Generator

Enter your specifications to create your pattern. Just type over my numbers, the directions will automatically change. After reviewing your entry, click "pop up pattern" below. Your full pattern will appear.

Enter Your Swatch Data

Knit a swatch in the stitch pattern you plan to use for the body of the sweater. Measure the lenght and width both before and after washing the swatch, and enter them here. I don't force you knit a ribbing swatch or garter stitch swatch; I estimate the gauge based on the stockinette swatch. However, I discuss the ribbing at the blog.
Enter number of rows and stitches knit in stockinette.	stitches by rows.
Enter dimensions measured after washing and blocking. These are used to calculate the number or rows and stitches required to knit the sweater.	inches wide by inches long (or tall).
If this yarn shrinks (or grows) after washing and blocking, select "different" in the pull down menu here: . If it doesn't shrink or grow, toggle "same" If you picked "different", enter dimensions measured before washing and blocking in the boxes to the right.	inches wide by inches long (or tall).
The program has calculated the gauge of your swatch after washing and blocking. This is show to the right.	stitches/inch and rows/inch.
Select stitch multiple: The program has to round when calculating the number of stitches to cast on. It can either round to make the number of stitches across then neck even or odd. This matters if you need to center a fancy stitch pattern. Select "odd" if you want the number of neck stitches to be odd. (I recommend this if you knit the sweater is broken rib. ) Select "even" if you want the number of neck stitches to be even. If you are knitting in stockinette, you probably don't care, toggle that for best fit.
Select stitch type for yarn estimate: So far, I only have data for two stitch types. If you use a different stitch type, you'll need to use your judgment to guess if the stitch uses more or less yarn than the ones I have tested.

Pick the sweater size.

Pull down to select the size range, then use the appropriate menu below. The program will recommend values for your sweater. You may also select 'custom' within any size range. If you want to customize, I suggest you first pick the size that fits best, for example "Men's 42". Let the form fill the boxes; then go through the form and set the toggles to the value you want. That will fill in all my recommended values for that size and style. Afterwards, scroll back up, toggle back to 'custom' and modify the body or sweater measurements you wish to modify. If you are customizing, you can find handy size information here: Women and Men's, children & teens.
Pull down size range to the right: After you select the range to the right, pull down the size from the appropriate menu below.
Misses's size:	Men's chest size:	Children:
According to the standards table, the a person who wears the currently selected size is about inches tall and weighs about lbs. (If the boxes say '??' it means the standards table didn't suggest the height and weight for the size you selected.)

Schematic

Refer to the schematic for the basic sweater dimensions. Note that that when the sleeve is assembled and worn, the top of the sleeve contributes to the sleeve length and yoke depth. The knitted lengths are a bit shorter. The values in the design boxes here correspond to the longer lengths as worn.

Sweater Design Data.

Body
Enter the chest circumference of the sweater. This should equal the wearer's chest size plus 1 to 4 inches.	inches.
Enter the Total Length of the sweater including ribbing: Sweater length is a matter of taste and current fashion. When I knit this sweater for myself, I plan to use used 23" which hits me about 7" below my waist and a bit high on my hips.	inches.
Stitch type for trim sweater: Enter the depth of the trim and decide if you want the trim snug. If you select snug, the instructions will have you cast on approximately 10% fewer stitches for the ribbing compared to the body of the sweater.	inches deep and
Enter the Raglan Armhole Depth: The absolute minimum value for the depth is equal to 1/2 the circumference of the wearer's upper arm plus another inch to account for the shoulders. Other than that, you can adjust.	inches.
Enter the Shoulder Slope for the sweater: This is not used for this design. (It will be if I add shoulder darts; otherwise, I'd just delete this row.) This affects the shoulder shaping. It is a very, very difficult quantity to measure. I advise making it 1/2" for an adult with very, very square shoulders (or if you like shoulder pads). Make it 2" if your shoulders slope a lot. If I were knitting for myself, I would use a value of 1.2" for my sweater with drop sleeves.	inches.
Select a neckline style. If you pick a polo neck, enter a placket depth and width. For either neck pick a collar height. (You can make a turtleneck out of a crew choice by making the collar tall.) Note: Crew neck has not been test knit. However, it's very similar to the polo neck.	inches deep and inches wide. Collar height: inches.
Neck Width before adding any trim or button band neck trim:	inches.

Design Your Sleeves.
Wearer's arm length. (Click to learn how to measure. )	inches.
Wearer's shoulder width. (Click to learn how to measure. This is used to estimate the knitted sleeve length that would reach your wrist. )	inches
Knitted length of a sleeve that would reach your wrist: (This value is calculated based on some body and sweater measurements and displayed for information only. People who customize can decide if they want the sleeve longer or shorter than their wrist and adjust the length below.)	inches
If you want the sweater shorter than your wrist, enter a positive value to the right: Result: Knitted sleeve length to knit for this sweater including the rib. (If you customize, enter the knitted sleeve length you want here. Use the box immediately above for guidance. I entered 1" shorter than the arm length for my doll sweater.)	inches. inches
Length of trim for cuff. State whether you want the trim to be "not snug", "snug" or "super snug". I use "snug" when I use ribbing and "very snug" when using a roll trim. That's because I like my trim to draw the hem of the sleeves in a little. (Snug results in 10% fewer stitches in the cuff. "Very snug results in 20% fewer stitches in the cuff.)	inches
Cuff width: You know how cuffs often "poof out" above ribbing? Enter the width of the bottom of the main portion of the sleeve -- that is, the wider width above the ribbing or trim. See schematic; and find "cuff width". For reference: Based on the degree of snugness you selected, and how tight you knit the ribbing, the actual cuff will pull in. Based on your current choices, the ribbing should comfortably fit a inch wrist. You can change this by either changing the "snug" setting above, or adjusting the stockinette portion above cuff width.	inches
Sleeve Circumference: Enter your choice to right. Based on the current chest dimension and neck width, the minimum sleeve circumference is: inches. If you need a narrower sleeve, you must either make the chest smaller or the neck wider. (Or wait for me to code a generator with shoulder shaping.)	inches
Back neck depth. (For information only.) The first value is the depth if you skip the extra short rows to raise the back neck; the second is after working short rows. These are calculated based on the chest dimension, the sleeve dimension and the neck width. It is equal to half the width of the top of the sleeve. If you need a larger back neck depth, you must make the sleeve circumference smaller than it currently is, or make the neck wider, or make the chest bigger.	inches. inches
Front neck depth without placket. This will be the depth if you pick crew neck. (For information only. This can't be edited).	inches

Get your pattern:

This design window prints the knitting directions for the body, sleeves and trim for this sweater into a pop-up window. You must have javascript running, or this page won't pop up. Also, if you have a pop-up blocker, you also need to adjust it to permit the instructions to appear in the pop-up window. (You can always change both settings back after you get your pattern.)
You pattern and this page both have a time stamp. Make sure they match. (I added the time stamp so you could be sure the pop-up window used the information contained in this form when you clicked "pop up patter". )
I advise clicking the pop up button now, even if you still need to modify the button bands. Examine the pattern and the date in the following box. . These need to match. If you edit any information on this page after popping the window open, just click the pop-up box again. Notice the times should change.
If you pattern window is closed, or the times don't match, click this button once or twice: