package main;
# add_ease2 ($piece)
#basic_ease_mln
#sub cup_ease
########################################################################################
sub add_ease2{
local ($piece) = @_;
# Call to obtain the appropriate ease values.
# Then add the ease values to the base values.
#
# note that "hip" is a misnomer. It is really the width above the welt.
# generally, this is narrower than the persons real hip
# because most sweaters are shorter than hip lenght.
$cup_ease = 0; $cup_length = 0;
#&cup_ease;
&basic_ease_mln;
$d_hip = $hip + $e_hip +$e_chest_dif; # later on put in an "if".
# if the sweater is longer than hip length, my ease is no good.
# e_chest_dif is for tedy bears.
$d_chest = $chest + $e_chest_d; # these are full ease values. $e_chest_d accounts for cup ease and teddy bear stuff
$d_waist = $waist + $e_waist;
$d_shoulder = $natural_shoulder + $e_shoulder;
$diam_armhole = $chest + $e_armhole;
if(($natural_shoulder-$neck_width) != 0) {
$d_shoulder_slope = $d_shoulder_slope *
($d_shoulder-$e_neck_width-$neck_width)/($natural_shoulder-$neck_width);}
else { print "
ERROR. You input a zero for your shoulder width."; }
# estimate the front line. This is hard for people to measure on themselves, so I'm not having them adjust it.
$d_back_waist = $back_waist + $e_back_waist + $jewel_neck_depth;
$d_bust_depth = $bust_depth + $e_bust_depth;
if($adjust_hip_rib eq "yes"){
# $d_hip_welt = $d_hip - $e_hip + $e_hip_rib; # old indirect way of calculating.
$d_hip_welt = $hip + $e_hip_rib +$e_chest_dif; }
else {$d_hip_welt = $d_hip;} # this saves this for adjusting the ribbing.
#####################
## overwrite some values based on style choices.
if($body_style eq "straight") { $d_chest = &max($d_chest,$d_hip) ; #found problme!!
$d_hip = $d_chest; }
# note: chest hip and waist widths are full -- not divided by two for per piece.
if($body_style eq "hip_waist_chest"){
$new_waist = $d_waist;}
else{ $new_waist = &min($d_chest,$d_hip);
$new_waist = &max($new_waist,$d_chest); } # yes, I'll make sure I clear the waist!
$diam_armhole=$d_chest; # change if bust darts are implemented
####################################################################
# these are full measurements not halved.
# adjustments for non-fitted sleeve
# semi_drop and snug semi drop are dropped halfway between shoulder and armhole.
#
if ($sleeve_cap eq "semi_drop") {$d_shoulder = 0.5 * ($natural_shoulder + $diam_armhole/2);}
if ($sleeve_cap eq "snug_semi_drop") {$d_shoulder = 0.5 * ($natural_shoulder + $diam_armhole/2);}
if ($sleeve_cap eq "drop") {$d_shoulder = $diam_armhole/2;}
if ($debug eq "on") {print "
In add ease2: natural shoulder, $natural_shoulder diam_armhole/2= $diam_armhole/2
dshoulder $d_shoulder ";}
return ( $d_hip, $d_chest, $d_waist,$d_shoulder,$d_back_waist);
}
# this is used for teh boat neck. It will advise how much to overlap the neck.
#calculate the approximate armhole scye:
1;
########################################################################################
sub basic_ease_mln {
# this is the ease suggested for the basic by Mary Louise Norman.
# I'd generally apply this for nice fitted sweaters.
# but it is easier to keep track of all MLN's recommendations by calling this first.
#
# These are the ease values suggested for the "basic" in Norman.
#ease information. These make some sense in inches.
# I am taking the total ease from Mary Louise Norman's book for the "basic form".
# however, I am putting a real ease in for the waiste because her basic form doesn't use this.
# I will end up implementing it slightly differently.
# in centimeters, for the *whole* body
#MLN suggests an average slope of 3.25 cm . Knit to fit suggests that womens
# shoulders have become more square and 1" is fine. I'm going to split the difference
# and use 2.8 cm. That way, people with sloping shoulders can stick in a
# shoulder pad.
# These are added to the length from the shoulder to the waist.
# these aren't used yet, so they aren't proof-run or proof knitted yet.
$e_back_waist_b = $e_snug_scye_b +$e_shoulder_slope_back; # this is the sum of the extra added in page 8 comment 4 and page 10 comment 2
$e_back_waist_f = $e_snug_scye_f +$e_shoulder_slope_front; # this is the sum of the extra in comment 3 on page 8.
# right now, $e_snug_scye_f is always zero. $e_shoulder_slope_front and $e_shoulder_slope_back are zero.
# sleeve ease
$e_cap_scye = -0.05 ;#(Page 21 MLN. I changed to a fraction. Later on I must multiply instead of adding.)
# the back is this much longer than the front:
$dif_sweater_length = $e_back_waist_b - $e_back_waist_f;
# This should take care of the fact that the teddy bears arms stick out towards the front.
if($size eq "Teddy") {
if( $arms_forward eq "yes"){ $e_chest_dif = 0.18 * $chest;}
else {$e_chest_dif = 0;}
$e_neck_teddy = $e_chest_dif * &min( 2* $neck_width/$chest,1); # neck is a single sided measure
$e_neck_teddy = &round($e_neck_teddy,0.01);
$e_chest_dif =&round($e_chest_dif,0.01);
if( $print eq "yes"){
if( $arms_forward eq "yes"){
print " To accommodate Teddies whose arms stick forward, the back chest width
will be $e_chest_dif $unit larger than the front chest width.
The back neck width will be $e_neck_teddy $unit wider than the front neck width ";
}
else {
print "
You requested a sweater for a teddy whose arms stick straight out to the sides.
The back and front widths will be identical. "}
}
$e_neck_teddy =$e_neck_teddy/2;
} #end teddy if
else {$e_chest_dif = 0;
$e_neck_teddy = 0;}
if ($piece eq "front") {
$e_back_waist = $e_back_waist_f + $cup_length;
$e_bust_depth = $e_back_waist_f;
$e_snug_scye =$e_snug_scye_f;
$d_shoulder_slope = $shoulder_slope + $e_shoulder_slope_front;
$d_sweater_length = $sweater_length -$dif_sweater_length;
# for chest and armhole part, the cup ease is added, and the teddy bear ease subtracted.
$e_armhole = $e_chest - $cup_ease - $e_chest_dif; # this makes it match the back
$e_chest_d = $e_chest + $cup_ease - $e_chest_dif; # I've added the cup ease.
$front_line = 0.95 * $d_shoulder; # Norman measures this. I am scaling from a butterick pattern.
$e_chest_dif = - $e_chest_dif; #forlater call to adjust the hip.
$e_neck_teddy = - $e_neck_teddy; #change sign.
}
if($piece eq "back")
{$e_back_waist = $e_back_waist_b;
$e_bust_depth = $e_back_waist_b;
$e_snug_scye =$e_snug_scye_b;
$d_shoulder_slope = $shoulder_slope + $e_shoulder_slope_back;
$d_sweater_length = $sweater_length;
$e_armhole = $e_chest - $cup_ease + $e_chest_dif ;
$e_chest_d = $e_chest - $cup_ease + $e_chest_dif ; # on back, straight up to armhole.
# note: front chest + back chest = whole chest.
}
} 1;
########################################################################################
sub cup_ease {
# This adjust ease on front and back to accommodate bust.
# I use Butterick's standard body measurements to conclude that the length for the dart increase by
# 3/8 per cup size. The bust is all in the front, and each larger cup size adds 1" to the front chest
# measurement.
# Some one one the list suggested 1/2" per cup size. So, the 3/8" should avoid
#Over fitting.
#
# I have no dart for an A cup. I will need to make sure that men's and children's sweater get set to cup size A.
# Unless the customer rejects it, I want to add eased or real darts. This is the amount I will add.
#
# A reader from the list says this:
# I'm a 36/38DDD ....some fitting manuals suggest
#> ending 1" from the apex, my personal preference is 2". I usually add a 2" in
#> depth dart.
# She makes the front 10" wider than the back. So, I am *way* underestimating here.
# Note that the first armhole decrease up to Armhole 3 should be developed from the back.
# after that,the decreases should continue on the front down the shoulder.
#I need to figure out the geometry to make this work in rotation.
#
$cup_ease = 0; $cup_length = 0;
if($piece eq "front") {
if($dart_ease = "yes") {
if($cup eq "B") {$cup_ease = 0.5/2; $cup_length = 1/8;}
if($cup eq "C") {$cup_ease = 1.5/2; $cup_length = 0.5;}
if($cup eq "D") {$cup_ease = 2.5/2; $cup_length = 7/8;}
if($cup eq "DD") {$cup_ease = 3.5/2; $cup_length = 10/8;}
if($cup eq "DDD") {$cup_ease = 4.5/2; $cup_length = 13/8;}
if($cup eq "DDDD") {$cup_ease = 5.5/2; $cup_length = 16/8;}
}
if($units eq "cm") {$cup_ease = $cup_ease*2.54; $cup_length = $cup_length * 2.54;}
}
} 1;
########################################