Have you ever tried to follow a multi-size knitting pattern that with charted instructions? Well, one of my readers did became perplexed and asked me to explain the intricacies of charted multisize knitting patterns. So, here’s an answer.
Let’s say you are trying to knit “Olaf” the wonderful chunky fairisle sweater shown to the left. You are knitting size 40/42. You cast on for the sleeve, knit the ribbing. Then, the instructions say:
“Following chart 2 and beginning on round 12 as marked on chart, work pattern and sides as indicated until increases are complete.”
Whoa Nelly. Now what?
I reproduced the lower portion of the chart illustrating the sleeves; if you understand the lower portion, the upper portion will be a snap. Now, let’s look at the knitting chart and go through stepwise.

First, notice the chart starts on round 12. This seems a bit mysterious, why not call that round 0? Well, this has to do with the numbering convention the pattern writer established to explain knitting the front and back. So, don’t worry about this. The instructions tell you to start of “row 12″; the chart has an arrow stating “row 12″, so start working the chart right there by “row 12″.
How do you start working? Do you start at the absolute right edge, as might be expected if this were a single size chart. No.
Examine the bottom of the chart. Notice there are some upward facing arrows associated with some sweater sizes. This is pattern is published in 4 sizes, so you’ll see 4 lines on the left and four on the right. Since I’m explaining what to do if you are knitting size 40/42, I enclosed that size with red squares. Now, look up and find the lines traced on the grid.
To knit, a right side facing row, you will read from right to left. Begin following the chart in the first box to the left of the red line on the right hand side. Keep following the chart until you reach the red line on the left. You’ve finished the row or round!
Now, work the next round or row.
If you are knitting rounds, you will also have arrived back at the first red line. So, jump up a row, start at the right hand side red line, knit all stitches in the colors indicated.
If you are knitting back and forth in rows, turn the work. The wrong side will be facing. You now need to go up a row, read from left to right. Start at the left hand red line, and purl all the stitches using the colors as indicated until you reach the right hand red line.
Ok, now for the increases. Notice from time to time, the line breaks and shifts outwards by 1 stitch? Those are the increases. You’ll want to work some sort of increase near the edge. Often, charted color patterns don’t tell you exactly what type of increase to work or exactly where. That means you get to decide how to work the increses.
What would I do? I’d work lifted increases 1 or 2 stitches in from each edge. When working back and forth, working increases away from the edges simplifies seaming. When working in rounds, you’ll find leaving a space between the increases makes them easier to work.
If you are knitting in rounds you may be worried about the pattern discontinuity in this region. Well, I’d say, don’t fret. This region is hidden under the arm. If you are fretting, we can talk about ways to improve things some day when I knit Jim a fair-isle sweater.
As to reading the chart, it’s so hard, right? Good luck. Hope you’ve got a guy as hunky as Olaf to model your sweater!
This is the fifth article in the “How to read charts” series. Here are links to the first four: How to Reach Charts I, Ribbing Charted,Seed Stitch Charted, Increase or Decrease in Pattern.
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