The Knitting Fiend

Design your Sweater

Select from the pull down menu. The boxes below will fill some key sweater measurements for that size; these include ease. If you wish to customize, you may select "custom" and then edit the values in the boxes. Misses Size: 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 Custom
If you selected 'custom' from the pull down menu, specify these values for the sweater; include ease. Chest Circumference: inches. Shoulder Width: inches. Sleeve Width: inches. Armhole depth: inches.	Click to enlarge.
The directions are based on these approximate arm and sleeve lengths, but you will be told to adjust as you knit. Sleeve Length (Neck to wrist): inches. Sweater length: inches.

First, check the warning box above. If it says there is a problem don't follow these directions.

Yarn Estimate: Based on your gauge and size choices, you will need pproximately yards ( meters) of a yarn.

Note: if the any box in the direction says do something '0' times, that means don't do the step.

Cable Strip:

Note: The cable is knit as a long thin strip, then folded and sewn or grafted together. You can see the sewn ring here: Shoulder Ring. If you plan to graft your strip shut, waste yarn cast on leaving a tail to sew, then end 1 row short of a full repeat and break yarn. If you plan to seam, cast on using any method, end on a full repeat, then bind off. Note also that if you plan to graft, you may want to examine your cable motif to decide the best row to begin knitting to avoid grafting near a cable twist. I began knitting on row 5 of "Bobble Cable", because that falls between twists.

Cast on stitches for your cable strip; this includes 2 extra selvedge stitches. Work in the decorative cable panel of your choice until the strip measures inches. (This will require approximately rows which is panel repeats.)

Graft or seam ends together to form a ring.

Identify the center of a motif and mark it as the center front. (I placed a bobble in the center front.) Fold along the center front and mark the center back on the opposite side of the fold. Fold with the center front and back marks on top of each other, and mark the two shoulders on the side folds.

Knit Upper Yoke

Along one edge of the cylinder, attach yarn at point where you think you want the back right shoulder (as worn) to be. (Don't fret too much. There is a chance to change your mind.) Pick up a stitches on the front and stitches on the back, distributing them evenly and making sure there are the same number of stitches in each quarter round. (Note, this is roughly stitches every 10 rows, but between and stitches every 10 rows.)

Do the following times:

Then

Place all stitches on a string so you can work the neck later. (You have knit approximately rounds. You sweater should look like mine shown on Knitting Olympics Monday. Notice the neck stitches are on a string.)

Lower Yoke:

Pick up a total of stitches along the lower strip, distributing evenly. Be sure to pick up stitches on the back and on the front. (This is roughly stitches every 10 rounds, but between stitches and stitches every 10 rounds. )

Repeat the following times:

Repeat the following times:

Work even until length measures inches from the stitches on a string. (You will probably knit more rounds and will have used yards -- meters -- of yarn.)

Place stitches on a string and pinch the yoke closed under the arms. Decide whether you like the underarm depth. If you need more length work even until it's the length you prefer ending with yarn near the right shoulder. (This the end of the round.)

While test fitting, turn the sweater to center the front motif nicely. This should already match the point you picked before knitting the upper yoke, but testing now ensures it ends up perfectly centered, but if it's shifted a bit, or you messed up, mark a new center front stitch with a safety pin.

Divide to work underarms and body.

Divide the work as follows: stitches for the front, stitches for the sleeve, stitches for the back and for the other sleeve. (I just place open ring markers.)

Test fit placing the sleeve stitches over each arm, and make sure you think the front is still centered nicely.

Knit Body

Knit across the back stitches. Place the sleeve stitches on a string to leave on hold. Next, cast on stitches for underarm, knit across front stitches. Place sleeve stitches on a string. Cast on stitches for underarm. Join -- stitches.

If you wish, place a marker in the center of the underarm stitches to indicate the side seams.

Knit until sweater measures inches from neck. Change to smaller diameter needles and begin to work ribbing. Work ribbing until it measures 2".

You have used approximately yds -- meters -- or yarn.

Knit sleeves.

Cast on stitches for underarm. Pick up sleeve stitches, join -- stitches.

Mark the center of the underarm stitches to keep track of the center stitch. It there are an even number of stitches, the center of the underarm falls between the two center underarm stitches, later when working decreases, work them on either side of the two center stitches. If there are an odd number, the center is the center underarm stitchl later when working decreases, work them on either side of this stitch. To permit you to adjust the sleeve length, we will decrease somewhat slowly and then decrease stitches evenly across the cuff to adjust the fit.

To work a decrease round, work the center stitch (or stitches), ssk, knit until 2 stitches remain before the center stitches, k2tog.

Do the following times: Knit rounds plain; work 1 decrease round.

Now change the decrease rate to: Knit rounds plain; work 1 decrease round.  Repeat until sleeve measures inches measured from neck.

Test fit. The sleeve should be 1 1/2" shorter than you want the final length to be after adding the ribbing. To reach this length you will probably decrease times at the second rate, if so stitches will remain. if you need more length you can continue decreasing in the pattern established.)

On the next round, decrease stitches evenly to end up with stitches. Work in ribbing for 1 1/2". Bind off.

Repeat to make second sleeve.

Each sleeve will use approximately yds -- meters-- so when you have completed one, you will have used yds -- meters.

Neck

Using smaller needles pick up live neck stitches waiting on a string.

Identify the back and front stitches; place markers on each shoulder. Half the stitches should be on the "front" and half on the "back". Decide which is the back. Shift each maker 1 stitch in toward the front. (So that half plus 2 stitches are between the markers on the "back".)

With back of sweater facing you, knit side facing attach yarn at marker on the back right shoulder as worn.

Row 1: Knit across back neck stitches until you are 1 stitch away from marker on the left shoulder. Wrap and turn the next stitch; the wrong (i.e. purl) side of work faces you.

Row 2: Purl until you are 1 stitch away from the marker; wrap and turn.

Row 3: Knit until you are 2 stitches away from next wrapped stitch. Wrap an turn next stitch. ( After you finish wrapping, the wrapped stitches will be separated by 1 unwrapped stitch.)

Row 4: Purl until you are 2 stitches away from the wrapped stitch. Wrap and turn.

Row 5: Work 4 decreases evenly spaced as you knit across this short row working until you are 2 stitches away from the first wrap stitch. Wrap and turn.

Row 6: Purl until you are 2 stitches away from the wrapped stitch. Wrap and turn.

Repeat rows 3-6 until you have worked a total of short rows.

Begin knitting rounds. Round 1: knit 1 round, picking up wraps as you work around. If necessary, decrease or increase up to two stitches to achieve a multiple of 4 stitches are required to work 2 x 2 ribbing. Round 2:, work *p2, k2* repeat around. Repeat round 2 until neckband measures 1". Bind off loosely.

Finish up.

Sew underarms. Tidy up all lose ends. Block as appropriate for your yarn and wear!