I promised this: how to work a “Peasant Heel”, illustrated.
One reader had wondered what a peasant heel looks like. Well, I’m modeling a sock with a peasant heel to the left; it peasant heel strongly resembles a short row heel. However, you don’t need to work short rows which will relieve some knitters.
Now, having shown you how they look, on to the “how to” portion of this article!
Peasant heels can be used in both “top down” and “toe up” sock patterns, and are worked similarly in both cases. When socks are knit top down, you knit the leg circular to the appropriate length, then stop knitting, drop the sock yarn but don’t break it. Attach waste yarn and knit 1/2 the total number of stitches on the needles with using waste yarn. Then, turn the work and purl back over the stitches you just knit. When you arrive back at the point where you attached the waste yarn, break the waste yarn. Now, pick up the sock yarn and start knitting around and around until you reach the point where you beging toe shaping. You follow your toe shaping directions.
If you work toe up, you do the same thing except you work the toe, then foot, the two rows of waste yarn where the heel will be and then work the leg.
So far so good. But, now you now have a sock with no heel and two stupid rows of waste yarn where you want to have a heel. What do do?
Either grab two DPNs or a circular needle, and insert them into the rows of sock yarn stitches adjacent to the waste yarn as shown to the right.
I used my circulars to illustrate how you will begin knitting. Notice in the photo, the cuff is toward the bottom and the toe toward the top. The needle tips point to the right. If you look for the broken ends of the waste yarn, you will also find them on the right.
When I knit, I will pull the top needle tip to the right to draw out the cable and use that tip to knit off the stitches on the lower needle — that is, the needle holding stitches on the “cuff” side of the sock.
Why do knit off the “cuff side” needle tip first? Because I knit this sock cuff down, which means I knit the cuff before the toe! (If you knit toe up and work peasant heels work the “toe” side stitches first. )
Ok, that’s not a real explanation of why you should do this. The full answer has something to do with the spiral geometry of knitting circular which I don’t want to explain right now. But, if you pick up stitches for the peasant heel and knit in the “wrong” direction, you’re likely to see a pesky holes on one or both sides of the heel. You can patch these up, but it’s better to knit in the correct direction in the first place.1


After sticking the needle tips in the stitches you want to pick up, check that you picked up every stitch, inspecting the sides carefully. You may find it difficult to pick up on one of the sides, because you are picking up stitches “upside down” which means the stitches are shifted a half stitch. So, you may find you are picking up one extra stitch or one two few. Try to err on the side of one too many– you can knit this away if necessary.
After checking carefully, (like I thought I did), snip the waste yarn and pick it out; see above left. You will now have live stitches.
Now, even though you checked really carefully like I did check to make sure you picked up all the stitches. Oops! I missed one! (See above right.)
Had I picked up stitches on DPN’s, I’d just slide this stitch onto a DPN, but I used circular needles. So, I placed the stitch I missed on a safety pin.
Now, if you are knitting with DPN’s distribute the stitches on three needles as specified in your pattern. If you are knitting using Magic Loop, just pull out the cable. You are ready to knit a plain round, which will be the first round of your “toe” shaping. So, attach the sock yarn and start knitting.
I could describe how to knit the toe in detail. But, I’m going to take the lazy way out and just tell you that you will knit what seems to bea pointy toe. Why take the lazy way out? Because almost no one has difficulties following directions to shape the toes!
The general idea is you alternate plain rounds and decrease rounds. Each decrease round you decrease a total of 4 stitches, one on the left edge and one on the right edge of the “top” , then one on the left and on on right edge of the “bottom”. Your pattern will tell you to continue alternating decrease and plain rounds doing this until only a certain number of stitches remain; this will generally be 1/3 the total number of stitches you had when you began the heel.) Then, you break the yarn and use kitchener stitch to close the heel and you weave in the end where you attached the sock yarn to begin knitting the heel.
Of course, while doing this, you should resist the temptation to try on your sock!
1. If you are pondering this, the reason it’s better to knit one direction rather than the other reason is related to the whole “color jog” phenomena knitters see when they first try to knit stripes circular.
Please leave comments!
5 Comments »
RSS feed for comments on this post.
Leave a comment
Line and paragraph breaks automatic, e-mail address never displayed, HTML allowed: <a href="" title=""> <abbr title=""> <acronym title=""> <b> <blockquote cite=""> <code> <em> <i> <strike> <strong>
Previous posts: ( Knit A Longs links | Home | Swatching to Design “Olympic Circle”.)
Lucia Liljegren: Copyright 2005-2007 Rights to all site content including knitting patterns, generators and haikus reserved.



Well crud. Now that you have shown an easier way to do a heal, I’m going to have to actually get back to knitting socks. hehehe As if I don’t already have enough works in progress. :OP
Comment by Becky (98 comments.) — 1/30/2006 @ 7:52 am
I’m really wishing that I persevered with inserting DPNs in the stitches before undoing the waste yarn when I started my heel this weekend. I eventually ended up giving up on that technique, because at 11 stitches per inch, and half the stitches in dark blue, I just couldn’t see what I was doing. So I started unravelling the waste yarn, and trying to pick up stitches one by one (or two by two, rather), as I slipped the waste yarn out. One side of the heel was perfect, and the other was a loopy mess. What a headache. (This was also in stranded colorwork, meaning that matching things up correctly and picking up stitches correctly was both important and incredibly frustrating.)
Doing a peasant heel in colorwork gives another explanation of why you want to start with the “leg side” heel stitches. On my sock, the colorwork pattern is continued down the heel, and you need to knit that leg side row first so it matches the first foot side row. A good way to learn that lesson, because I’d notice right away if the patterning were off because of starting in the wrong spot.
Thanks so much for the tutorial. I think for my next sock, I’m going to insert lifelines right before and after the scrap yarn rows. I assume that will take the place of threading a needle through before taking out the scrap yarn, without having me go blind trying to do so with tiny dark stitches.
Comment by Rebekkah (2 comments.) — 1/30/2006 @ 8:48 am
[…] Break yarn leaving a tail that is approximately 3 times as long as the width across the live stiches. Thread a tapestry needle with this yarn, and graft toe. Heel: […]
Pingback by matchedThe Knitting Fiend » Blog Archive » Peasant Heel Sockulator (7) ( comments.) — 1/30/2006 @ 4:03 pm
[…] that is called Bayerische. One of the things I love most about this is the afterthought, or peasant, heel. Love love love it. Its perfect for self striping sock yarn. I’ve got one sock finished […]
Pingback by Night Owl « Knitty Knit Knit — 4/5/2008 @ 2:09 am
[…] 60 stitch toe-up stockinette sock. Turkish cast-on with afterthought heel and grafted bind off. Yarn: Knitterly Things Vesper Sock in Meteor Needles: Size 1 Addi Lace […]
Pingback by Meteor Socks &laquo; Knitty Knit Knit — 5/25/2008 @ 2:18 pm