The Knitting Fiend

Design your sock

Select from the pull down menu, then enter your shoe size in the box. The boxes to the right will fill with your sock foot length and circumference. Man Woman Child Custom US Shoe Size:

The sock foot length is is measured from the cast on to the angled lined formed when grafting the Peasant Heel, as illustrated with the blue line. The sock foot circumference goes all the way around the sock and is illustrated with a magenta line. (This and the stitch gauge are multiplied to determine the number of stitches to cast on.) The sock length is measured from the center of the heel turn to the top of the cuff and illustrated in green. (The ribbed sock is used to illustrate dimensions only. This sockulator describes a sock knit in stockinet.) Note: If you customize, bear in mind that most people like their sock circumference 10% tighter than their foot. A few like their socks 5-10% shorter than their foot (but some like their socks long).

If you selected 'custom' from the pull down menu, measure your foot and enter values for your sock below-- subtracting 10% from the circumference if you like snug socks. Sock foot length: inches. Sock foot circumference: inches. Sock length: inches.

Materials:

Needles: Set of four double pointed needles that are appropriate for your yarn. (I like to knit socks firmly, so you may want to use one needle size smaller than recommended for your yarn.) A double ended stitch holder (which may be a string of yarn) or a circular needle with a diameter approximately equal to, or smaller than, the DPNs.

Yarn: Any sock yarn you like. The amount required depends on your foot size and gauge. Each of my socks in women's size 6 required just under 100 meters for a pair knit at 6 st/inch. So, I'd need 200 meters for both. You'll need more yardage if you knit at a tighter gauge and less if you knit at a looser gauge.

(Click hyperlinks for tutorials.)

Abbreviations & Terms: The numbers refer to the superscripts in the directions.

Cast On & Ribbed leg.

• Cast on stitches and join to work in rounds.
• Note: There are many ways to join. My method is this: Cast on an extra stitch. Slip the first stitch (this is the "extra" one and will be eliminated when you work round 1.) Work round 1, beginning as described below, but slip the final stitch instead of doing whatever the direction suggests. Put tips together so first slipped stitch and final slipped stitches are next to each other with the first slipped stitch on the left needle tip. Slide the stitch on the right needle tip to the right tip. Then "k2tog" to finish round 1.
• Optional: Hang a marker or safetypin to indicate the beginning of the round.
• While you are knitting, check your row gauge. If it doesn't match the value you entered when creating this pattern, then, before working the toe, visit the site again, enter the correct value, and reprint. You will notice the estimated length of the peasant heel and toe will change. Nothing else should change.
• Work in ribbing of your choice until ribbing measures as long as you'd like the ribbing to be (I knit about 1"). Then, switch to stockinette and work until the length from cast on measures inches when you finish a round. ( I've estimated the peasant heel will add inches to the length measured from the floor.)

• Attach waste yarn. Knit stitches.Turn, so wrong side faces. Purl back over the stitches you just knit. (The two waste yarn rows are illustrated here.)
• Optional: Hang markers on either side of the waste yarn to show the "sides" of the sock. The heel will be on the "sole" side of the sock, the other side is the instep.
• Pick up main yarn and continue, knitting in stockinette.

• If you knit on DPN's distribute stitches on three needles so the sole stitches are on needle 1 and the sole stitches are divided on needles 2 and 3. Otherwise, if you use magic loop, place the sole stiches on one needle tip and the instep stitches on the other tip.
• All rounds: Knit stitches on needle 1, knit stitches on needle 2, knit stitches on needle 3. Repeat round 1.
• Note: The stitches on needles 2 & 3 will be the instep or "top" of sock; the stitches on needles 2 and 3 are the sole.
• Work even until foot measures inches measured from tip of toe. (The toe adds inches; the peasant heel will add inches.)

• You will now begin working in stockinette and decreasing on both sides of the toe. (Note: If you use the magic loop method, I recommend using a safety pin to mark the beginning of a round.)
• Round 1: Knit 1 round in stockinette.
• Round 2: Needle 1: Knit 1, ssk, knit until 3 stitches remain k2tog, k1.  Needle 2: Knit 1, ssk, knit to end of needle. Needle 3: knit until 3 stitches remain, k2tog.
• Repeat rounds 1 and 2 until stitches remain on needle 1.
• Break yarn leaving a tail that is approximately 3 times as long as the width across the live stiches. Thread a tapestry needle with this yarn, and graft toe.

• Pick up stitches from waste yarn; arrange so the first half round you knit is on the cuff side and not the foot side. Believe it or not, follow the directions to knit a toe, but continue until stitches remain on needle 1.