The Knitting Fiend

Design your sock

Select from the pull down menu, then enter your shoe size in the box. The boxes to the right will fill with your sock foot length and circumference. Man Woman Child Custom US Shoe Size:

The sock foot length is is measured from the cast on to the back of the short row heel turn and illustrated with the blue line. The sock foot circumference goes all the way around the sock and is illustrated with a magental line. (This and the stitch gauge are multiplied to determine the number of stitches to cast on.) The sock length is measured from the center of the heel turn to the top of the cuff and illustrated in green.  Note: If you customize, bear in mind that many people like their sock circumference 10% tighter than their foot. Some like their socks 5-10% shorter than their foot.

If you selected 'custom' from the pull down menu, measure your foot and enter values for your sock below-- subtracting 10% from the circumference if you like snug socks. Sock foot length: inches. Sock foot circumference: inches. Sock length: inches.

Materials:

Needles: Set of four double pointed needles that are appropriate for your yarn. (I like to knit socks firmly, so you may want to use one needle size smaller than recommended for your yarn.) A double ended stitch holder (which may be a string of yarn) or a circular needle with a diameter approximately equal to, or smaller than, the DPNs.

Yarn: Any sock yarn you like. The amount required depends on your foot size and gauge. Each of my socks in women's size 6 required just under 100 meters for a pair knit at 6 st/inch. So, I'd need 200 meters for both. You'll need more yardage if you knit at a tighter gauge and less if you knit at a looser gauge.

(Click hyperlinks for tutorials.)

Abbreviations & Terms: The numbers refer to the superscripts in the directions.

0.When slipping stitches, always slip as to purl unless specifically told otherwise. (That's the most common knitting convention.)

1. Wrap and Turn when working a knit row: When you reach the stitch to be wrapped, bring yarn forward as to purl, slip the stitch purlwise, bring yarn back as to knit, turn so knit side faces, slip first stitch on on the left needle tip. This stitch is now wrapped. Notice you have already turned to begin working purl row.

2. Wrap and Turn when working a purl row: When you reach the stitch to be wrapped, slip it, bring the yarn forward as to knit, turn work, slip the first stitch on the left tip. Bring yarn to back as to knit. It's now wrapped and you've already slipped the wrapped stitch. Don't turn again! (Alternate method: When you rach the stitch to be wrapped, bring yarn back as to knit, slip stitch, bring yarn forward as to purl, turn so knit side faces, slip first stitch on left needle tip. The stitch is now wrapped and you have turned to knit the next row.)

3. Knit stitch together with wraps. Slip wrapped stitch purlwise. Use left needle tip to lift wrap or wraps over the slipped stitch. Slip stitch and wraps back to left needle tip. Insert right needle tip into stitch knitwise, and continue through to wraps. Knit all together. (The purpose is to hide the wraps.)

4. Purl stitch together with wraps. Slip wrapped stitch knitwise. Use left needle tip to lift wrap or wraps over slipped stitch. Slip stitches back to left needle tip. Purl all together through back loop of stitch. (The purpose is to hide the wraps.)

Cast On & Ribbed leg.

• Cast on stitches and join to work in rounds.
• Note: There are many ways to join. My method is this: Cast on an extra stitch. Slip the first stitch (this is the "extra" one and will be eliminated when you work round 1.) Work round 1, beginning as described below, but slip the final stitch instead of doing whatever the direction suggests. Put tips together so first slipped stitch and final slipped stitches are next to each other with the first slipped stitch on the left needle tip. Slide the stitch on the right needle tip to the right tip. Then "k2tog" to finish round 1.
• Round 1: Knit , *p2, k2* ; repeat from * to end of round, but end p2, knit . (This is just 2 x 2 ribbing, but written to make the official beginning of the round fall in a spot that simplifies later instructions.)
• Optional: Hang a marker or safetypin to indicate the beginning of the round.
• Repeat  round 1 until ribbing measures inches when you finish a round.   (Note: that rounds end with a "p2, knit " and I've estimated the heel turn will add inches.)
Distribute stitches & Prepare to knit heel:

• Round 1: Knit stitches onto a DPN. These are the heel stitches.
• Second half of round 1: Pick up another DPN (or circular needle) and begin to knit in pattern across the next group of stitches. If you are using a DPN, you will need to pick up another DPN when you have knit halfway across. (Note: These are the instep stitches. If you counted correctly, this group of stitches should begin with "knit , p2"; it ends with a "p2, knit ". The purpose of this arrangement is to center the ribbing on the instep while placing at least 1 knit stitch on the edge of the instep. )
• If you used a DPN to knit the instep stitches, place them on a double ended stitch holder or string.

• You will now work back and forth to create a heel flap. You will start working decreasing short rows followed by increasing short rows.

• Knit side is facing you. Knit stitches. Wrap and turn. (There are 0 stitches remaining on the left hand needle when you turn.)
• Purl side still facing: Purl stitches. Wrap and turn. (There are 0 stitches on left needle when you turn.)
• Knit stitches. Wrap and turn. (There is 1 stitch on the left hand needle when you turn.)
• Purl stitches. Wrap and turn. (1 stitches on left needle when you turn.)
• Work in pattern established-- always working 1 stitch less each row -- until stitches remain when you complete a purl row (You will purl stitches on this row. Don't forget to wrap and turn when you work the final purl row.)
• Note: this is where your heel will be when you wear the sock. You can measure and verify the length of the sock if you like.

• You work this the same way you worked increasing short rows for the toe!
• Knit stitches. Knit the next stitch together with its wrap. Wrap and turn next stitch; it is now wrapped twice. (Note: If you count the stitch you wrapped and turned, stitches to the left are not knit. Also, remember that wrapping and turning includes slipping the stitch after turning.)
• Purl stitches. Purl next stitch with wrap. Wrap and turn next stitch. ( stitches not worked.)
• Knit stitches, then knit next stitch with both wraps. Wrap and turn next stitch. ( stitches not worked.)
• Purl stitches; purl nextstitch with both wraps. Wrap and turn next stitch. ( stitches not worked.)
• Continue in pattern established -- always working 1 additional stitch each row until you get ready to knit the final edge stitch together with its wraps. Knit this stitch with its wraps. Next, slip a stitch from the stitch holder to the needle you just emptied. Wrap and turn this stitch. (Do remember you slip after turning.)
• Purl up to the edge stitch; purl it together with its wraps. Slip a stitch from the holder to the left needle; warp and turn the slipped stitch.
• You will now begin working in rounds using DPNs.
• Knit half the stitches on the current needle; call this new needle "needle 1".
• Pick up a second DPN call it needle 2. Knit until you reach the wrapped stitch; knit it together with its wrap.
• If necessary, transfer instep stitches from holder to a needle.
• Pick up another sock needle; call it needle 3. Work in pattern across instep stitches. (That is, knit 2 x 2 ribbing.)
• Needle 1: The first stitch is wrapped. Knit it with its wrap as follows: Use right needle tip to lift wrap over the knit stitch. Slip the knit stitch knitwise, slip back to left needle. Knit stitch with its wrap doing it the way you would work an ssk.
• Knit across heel stitches on needles 1 & 2; work stitches on needle 3 in pattern.

• Option 1: (Stockinette foot) All rounds: Knit stitches on needle 1, knit stitches on needle 2, knit stitches on needle 3. Repeat round 1.
• Option 2: (Ribbed sock, illustrated) All rounds: Needle 1 & 2: Knit all stitches. Needle 3: Work in pattern. (This should be knit , *p2, k2 repeat from *, end p2, knit to continue the 2 x 2 ribbing.)
• Note: The stitches on needles 2 & 3 will be the instep or "top" of sock; the stitches on needles 2 and 3 are the sole.
• Work even until foot measures inches measured from tip of toe. (The toe adds inches.)
• If you are knitting these for yourself, test the length by trying on the sock. Your toe should poke out a bit.

Toe:

• You will now begin working in stockinette and decreasing on both sides of the toe.
• Round 1: Knit 1 round in stockinette.
• Round 2: Needle 1: Knit 1, ssk, knit until 3 stitches remain k2tog, k1.  Needle 2: Knit 1, ssk, knit to end of needle. Needle 3: knit until 3 stitches remain, k2tog.
• Repeat rounds 1 and 2 until stitches remain on needle 1.
• Break yarn leaving a tail that is approximately 3 times as long as the width across the live stiches. Thread a tapestry needle with this yarn, and graft toe.