Spiral Top Hat: Calculator.
Posted on 11.09.05 by lucia @ 8:04 am

This calculator charts a basic hat with a fairly flat top knit from the top down. Some details associated with knitting the basic hat are discussed in Top Down Spiral Hat. The crown is shaped with "spiral" type increases. The directions to knit the hat also describe how to knit single thickness earflaps and knit on the idiot cord ties and trim, providing links with further details.

If you want a slightly different hat, the instructions also suggest what you should do if you'd like a similar hat but with a ribbed or rolled hem.


Materials:

  • About 50-100 grams of yarn; the exact amount required depends on the gauge of the stitches.
  • 1 set of double pointed needles (DPNs) in diameter appropriate for yarn. (I prefer sets with 5 needles for this hat.)
  • Circular or double pointed needles one or two diameter sizes smaller than the DPNs you use for the main part of the hat.
  • (Optional) Circular needles in same diameter as DPNs. (I switch to my Denise adjustables.)
  • Tapestry needle.
  • Some waste yarn.

Abbreviations:
kfb = knit into front and back of stitch. (See Knit twice into same stitch.)
Knitting Directions:
Design Information
Enter number of stitches per inch.
Correct fit depends on an accurate estimate for this value. Do double check as you knit the hat.
st/inch
Choose size:
Based on your choice, I estimate the person's head circumference is inches.
I'll make the hat 95% of your head circumference or:
(If you selected custom, enter the hat circumference you'd like in inches)
inches.

If I can't calculate this type of hat based on your choices, I'll warn you in the box below:

Basic Hat.

  • Cast on 8 stitches with waste yarn. Knit 1 row.
  • Distribute 8 stitches on four double pointed needles and join being careful not to twist. Knit 1 round; break yarn.
  • Attach hat yarn with fairly long tail; knit 1 round. Attach a safety pin to mark beg/end of round.
  • *kfb; repeat to end of round. -- 16 stitches.
  • *kfb, k1; repeat to end of round -- 24 stitches.
  • knit all stitches.
  • () Increase rapidly as follows:
    1. *kfb, k2; repeat to end of round -- 32 stitches.
    2. *kfb, k3; repeat to end of round -- 40 stitches.
    3. knit all stitches.
    4. Continue in the pattern established, alternating 2 increase rounds and 1 plain round until there are a total of stitches on your needle. End with plain round. (Notice, the number of stitches knit between 'kfb's increases by 1 each increase round.)
  • Increase more slowly by alternating 1 increase and 1 plain round. These are the next two rows to establish the pattern.
    1. *kfb, k; repeat to end of round -- stitches.
    2. knit all stitches.
  • Continue in pattern established until there are stitches; end with a plain round.
  • On next round, work an increase round, but work only of the 8 increases, distributing the skipped increases evenly. -- stitches.
  • Work without increasing until hat measures inches from crown to hem. Finish round, place hat on a string and test fit.
  • Option: Plain hat: when the hat measures 1" shorter than the length you prefer, change to smaller diameter needles and work 1 x 1 ribbing, garter stitch or some other non-rolling trim. (If you are working garter stitch, decrease 1 stitch every 10 stitches on first row. Garter stitch spreads.) If you like a roll hat, knit about 1 1/2" more in stockinette. It will roll on it's own. Bind off.
  • Option: Ear flaps. When the hat is about inch shorter than the length you prefer, make two stitch wide earflaps using short rows1. Then attach I Cord ties. (Instructions for flaps and I-cord follow.)
  • Thread a tapestry needle with yarn tail and anchor the 8 stitches in the first round. Then remove waste yarn. Pull tail, then weave in on wrong side of hat. Weave in all loose ends, and block as suggested for your yarn.

Optional Earflaps:

  • Starting at the round marker, knit stitches. Turn Work.
  • Purl Turn Work.
  • Knit Turn Work.
  • Purl Turn Work.
  • Continue in pattern established, working 1 stitch fewer each row until you work a row with only 2 stitches. (This will form a pointy earflap.)
  • Knit stitches, (if you used yarn-over short rows, you will need to knit the yarn overs together with stitches as you come to them.)
  • You are now at the center of the next earflap. Try the hat on and see if you like the location. If not, adjust by knitting or ripping back a few stitches.
  • Work another earflap following the directions for the first flap.
  • Knit , sealing yarn-overs or wraps as you go. Break yarn.
  • Work I-Cord. Using double pointed needles, cast on 3 stitches with waste yarn. Knit 1 row.
  • Do not turn work. Hold needle with in your left hand, with the knit side facing you. Yarn is dangling on the left. Grab yarn, pull tight, and knit 1 row. Repeat this step a few times. You will notice a cord begins to form. Break yarn.
  • Attach hat yarn, and continue as before, never turning work. Knit until cord measures inches from waste yarn. (If you aren't sure how long you want these, don't worry. You can either knit extra or unravel later on.)
  • Find an earflap point. Recall there were two stitches in the final "point" row of the earflap. Slide earflap stitches so the needle points are between the two stitches that create the "point" of the earflap. With knit side of hat facing you, slide the 3 I cord stitches onto the left needle tip. Begin to knit attached I-cord; to do this, you knit the first two I-cord stitches, then work an ssk to seam together the third I cord stitch to a hat stitch. ( You can see details of how to attach the I cord in my halter pattern. Also, if you worked any yarn over short row, you will eventually come across some yarn overs. Work yarn-overs and stitches together by working a "slip icord stitch, slip hat stitch, slip both stitches back to left needle, then knit 3 stitches together.") Continue until you have knit the I-cord together with the first of the two stitches that creates the point of the earflap. Begin to knit detached I cord, and continue until the second cord is the same length as the first. Break yarn; anchor. Then, remove waste yarn and anchor the other I-cord edge. (Tip added 6/6/2006: When attaching over the sloping part of the earflaps, you may want to use thicker needles. MonkeyJunkie went up 3 sizes!)
  • Cast on 3 stitches. Knit 1 row of I cord. Slide stitches onto left needle tip and begin to knit attached I cord over the back edge of the hat. continue until all live hat stitches have been knit off. Knit 1 more row I-cord. Bind off. Tack down edges behind the long chord.
  • Weave in any loose ends, block, wear.

1. You will want to use some method to seal the short rows, but I don't discuss this when describing the hat pattern. My current favorite method is "yarn over short rows", which I describe here. You can also wrap and turn, as described here.


Please leave comments! 15 Comments

15 Comments »

  1. [...] After distributing the stitches on sock needles, I joined, and began knitting in rounds. I began to increase stitches at the rate I calculated using my soon to be published Previous posts: ( Candy Cane Haiku | Home | Spiral Top Hat: Calculator.)   [...]

    Pingback by The Knitting Fiend » Blog Archive » Ear Flap Hat Illustrated — 11/9/2005 @ 8:51 am

  2. Man, I love your calculators!!!

    Comment by Elaine — 11/9/2005 @ 3:30 pm

  3. Thanks. I hope they help people who are math averse learn to feel more comfortable designing. I know lots of people have ideas for what they’d like to do, but they are afraid of figuring out shaping.

    Comment by lucia — 11/9/2005 @ 3:35 pm

  4. [...] Better yet, Deborah at Drive By Knitting knit both my ear flap hat and the Flying Spaghetti Monster! (Although, possibly, my short row explanation on the hat isn’t clear? I might have to show that again!) [...]

    Pingback by The Knitting Fiend » Blog Archive » Idiot Friendly! — 11/29/2005 @ 9:00 am

  5. [...] I bet that hat will keep her ears warm all winter! 1. I also have a single flap hat which is similar. Previous posts: ( Go Vote In Queer Joe’s Contest! | Home )   [...]

    Pingback by The Knitting Fiend » Blog Archive » — 12/31/2005 @ 10:04 am

  6. Dear Lucia,

    Just wanted to say thank you for posting this pattern and this calculator. I’m a new mom and new knitter, and just last week conquered my fear of dpns. This is my first finished project on them, with a cotton/angora hat for the kiddo. It’s late, and I just finished, so we’ll see how it fits him tomorrow.

    Thank you again!!

    Comment by Ginny — 3/7/2006 @ 10:24 pm

  7. Hello.
    The hat is interesting to me. I’d like to know how to do ear flaps. Thank you for your willingness to custom calculate! I am grateful! Have a wonderful day.
    Sam

    Comment by Sam — 9/3/2006 @ 1:26 pm

  8. Thanks for the pattern. I just left a message and didn’t realize that the pattern is above the area to post. Silly me. It looks like a nice pattern. I look forward to knitting it!

    Comment by Sam — 9/3/2006 @ 1:30 pm

  9. thank you lots

    Comment by brad hoffman — 2/10/2007 @ 2:22 pm

  10. It was amazing to find a hat in garter stitch knitted from the top down . !!! I am having an awful time really ,deciding to knit a slip over style knit from top to base because of salvaging the top of front of a “being knitted” norwegian style sweater ,the base of the front which i removed to make a hat and the middle part made a bag leaving the upper part with neck part completed The only solution was to knit the rest as a slip over style garmentin garter stitch from base of what was left of the top of front downwards It has been dreadful -The knitting of the original frontof the sweater did not seem good enough you see. The slip ove r seems worse than the knitting of the whole norwegian style sweater which i have completed Garter stitch might not seem as different upside down as stocking sttch but if there was any spare wool i woud have knitted a garter stitch hat but it might have looked different if it was knitted from base to top so thsat was a worry Anyway i decided to knit the slipoverlonge r to us e up the spare wool and that is an effort in stripey design because there is insufficient of the main colour so i wish i ha d found your website sooner about how to knit a hat from top to base It came up on a search and the search said garter stitch spreads – and those seemed to be the words of a fellow -sufferer .

    Comment by Maureen — 3/22/2007 @ 6:26 am

  11. Help! I made the hat, did my ribbing, and bound off. But it seems to me that binding off at the bottom of the hat doesn’t make sense – the bound-off edge is tighter than the ribbing. Did I do something wrong, or is it supposed to be that way?

    Comment by Karen Vogel — 10/14/2007 @ 6:10 pm

  12. Karen- When you are binding off, to make a looser bind off you can either A. use larger needles to bind off or B. Do this stretchy bind off: Knit the first stitch, knit the second stitch and then knit those two together (as if it were a ssk), then keep going knit the 3rd stitch and then knit the two stitches on the right needle together, etc etc until you have finished your bind off. Feel free to e-mail me if you have any questions :) lovemyryley@aol.com

    Comment by Kim — 11/11/2007 @ 8:36 am

  13. Pretty impressive. I love to knit hats top down and I found your site through a web search. Can’t wait to start.
    Linda Shelhamer
    Billings, MT
    www. montanamadetradingpost.com/SandwichCreativity/

    Comment by Linda Shelhamer — 12/16/2007 @ 1:53 pm

  14. Thank you for this wonderful tool. I was searching for a top down preemie hat pattern that I could do with the Magic Loop method. Since I am not an advanced knitter, I didn’t know where to begin. This works really well.

    Comment by Karen — 8/6/2009 @ 9:30 am

  15. This is the first pattern I have been able to follow successfully! THANKS!!!!

    Comment by Nicole — 9/28/2009 @ 11:09 am

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