Create your custom slipper pattern.

A few people emailed to tell me the pop-up window for my slipper pattern wasn't popping up.

I couldn't figure out why it doesn't pop-up, but I have found pop-ups are stubborn. So, I edited the program eliminating the pop-up feature, and I'm posting it here. I hope this works for people here. Good luck!

If you have questions, enter them in comments and / or problems. The problem might be you-- but it might be my program. Questions help me figure out what I did wrong; so ask in comments. That's the great thing about the blog.

To create your slipper pattern, specify the length and width of the slipper and the stitch and row gauge for the yarn. Because slippers are stretchy, you don't need to be extremely precise. Any slipper will probably fit at least 3 different shoe sizes!

Fill out the form. The number of stitches and rows for your pattern will be calculated automatically.

Enter your shoe size

Enter a shoe size and this portion of the form will fill in the wearer's foot length. If you don't know the shoe size, don't worry. Guess a shoe size and continue on with the form. (For those unfamiliar with US shoe sizes: stores carry size Women's size 5-12 and Men's size 7-13.) Please use US sizes. NOTE: This will not be the length or your slipper.
Man Woman Child US Shoe Size:	Estimated foot length:inches.

Enter length and width of knitted slipper.

Important The values you enter in these boxes will be the final length and width of the slipper. Length is defined as illustrated. The width is the width across the ball of the foot. Since the slipper is shown on its side, the half width is shown. I like my slippers short and tight because I find they tend to stretch. So, the default is for slippers smaller than your feet. If you like loose slippers, change these numbers! If you want the this program to recommend a size based on your shoe size, select "standard"; I'll pick slipper dimensions to fit the shoe size shown. The slipper length will be 90% your foot length. This makes the slipper snug. (If you don't like snug slippers, tell the program your feet are bigger!) If you want to customize to make slippers for some other size foot, click "custom", then enter length and width boxes to the size you want. (Metric users, you may ignore the "inch" information and just do everything in cm. It will work out ok. )

Custom Standard

Slipper Length:inches. Slipper Width.inches.

Enter Gauge Information here

You can customize the pattern for your exact yarn gauge or you can just guess the gauge based on the yarn type. It's up to you to pick the yarn, and needle size. I have no idea what you are going to pick, so I can't recommend a needle diameter. I used two strands of yarn that appeared to be sport or worsted weight. (Frankly, I make slippers from left over sweater yarn. So, I always know the gauge very precisely.  I would probably never knit a gauge swatch for slippers; I'd just guess. Then I'd check fit as I go along. This pattern is perfect for that! )

Bulky Worsted Sport Fingering Probable gauge: st/inch row/inch

This column shows the gauges that will actually be used to design the slipper pattern. Click "custom" if you want to use your own gauge. Click standard and the form will copy the numbers in the boxes to the left. Custom Standard Actual Gauge st/inch row/inch

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Very Brief Tally

Summary of Stitch Counts in Key Locations

This table contains the number of stitches at some key locations for the slipper. These already appeared in appropriate points in the actual direction. The table is here because I just knit my slipper from the brief table.
Cast On	Inc Stitches	Top Stitches	Inc Rounds	Bottom Stitches
Toe Stitches	Heel Stitches	Ball Stitches	Side Stitches	Foot Rows (approximate!)

Read the following box for possible warnings:

Click this if the tally table is empty.

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Lucia's Hand Knit Slipper Boots Directions

Dimensions and Gauges

These are your slipper dimensions. Check to make sure you like them, because I design slippers short and tight! Slipper Length: inches. Slipper Width. inches.

These are your knitting gauges. st/inch row/inch

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Knitting Directions

When knitting, you will first knit the outside of the slipper. You will then knit the slipper sole. Refer to the bottom for abbreviations.

Warning: Do not try to knit toe has fewer than 3 stitches. The slippers will look stupid. To make really small slippers, or baby booties use thin yarn!

MATERIALS REQUIRED: The amount of yarn will depend on the yarn thickness, and fiber. These amounts should be more than enough.
Worsted weight yarn:  4-6 oz yarn.
Fingering weight yarn:  2-4 oz yarn.

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Directions:
Read the following box for possible warnings about your stitch gauge:

1. Flange: You begin by knitting rows.  Cast on: stitches using cable cast on. Purl rows ( garter stitch.)
2. On next row, increase  stitches, distributing these evenly.
   
3. Join round (and begin stockinette.)
   

1. Next row, slip 1 stitch, knit until 2 stitches remain. M1 stitch, k1. Place a maker. Slip last stitch on left tip to right needle tip. Place tips together to join. Check knitting is not twisted, slip stitch on right tip to left tip. then knit the first and final slipped stitches together. (This reduces 1 stitch and joins the knitting in a circle; there are stitches on needle. You will now work in rounds. The stitch after the marker is the "center front".)

Next round:

1. (There is a stitch, and then the marker on the right needle. Begin knitting rounds.) K1, M1, knit until there is 1 stitch before marker, M1, k1, slip marker.
2. All others: k1, k1, M1, knit until there is 1 stitch before marker, M1, k1, slip marker.
3. Repeat step 4b until there are stitches; skip the final M1 on the last round.

Optional: You can take the stitches off on a string and test the fit at this point. If it is too small, continue to knit in the pattern established. If it is too large, unravel a few rounds.

Knit rounds without increasing.

Slip marker.  Knit stitches, place marker (marks toe), knit stitches, place marker (first heel), knit stitches, place marker (heel), knit stitches, place marker (marks toe edge.) Knit up to the first marker you placed; (end of round)

Knit until reach the first heel marker you placed.

1. You are now going to work the bottom of the slipper working back and forth in short rows. It easiest to start out using the circular needles and switch to double pointed needles once the knitting gets tight.  You can drop the markers as you reach them. You will want to keep a row tally; (I write a series of 1, and 2's on paper and cross them out as I finish the knit rows. The reason for this system may become clear, but you can come up with your own. I'll note the cross out procedure in the directions, it's optional. Ultimately, you will be knitting a roughly rows for the foot. )
2. If you don't "get" what you are doing here, and need to experience an "aha" before you start, read my blog about the white hand knit purse.  It shows a panel crawling across the underside of knitting.

Row 1: Slip marker. K2 together.Knit stitches. SSK. Turn work. (Write down and cross out a 1 on the paper.)

1. Note: You should have reached the marker at the end of the row. Also, the k2 tog and ssk's are seaming the bottom onto the sides of the slipper. You will eventually see these forming a seam along the edge of the slipper.

Row 2: Slip first, purl stitches, slip last stitch. You should reach the marker (you can drop it now). Slip one stitch. (The final stitch is a stitch from the slipper side.) Turn work.

Row 3: K2 together. (You are knitting the slipped stitches together.)  Knit stitches. SSK. Turn work. (Write and cross cross out a 1 on the paper.)

Row 4: Repeat row 2 except end with slip two additional stitches.

Row 5: Repeat row 3 except, begin with Knit 3 together, and end with Slip, Slip, Slip, Knit. (You are seaming to additional stitches on the side of the slipper to keep the slipper bottom from getting too long. (Write and cross out a 2 on the paper.)

From now on: Work an  row pattern, working [**row 2, row 3** times , then  row 4, row 5, time**] Note that row 4 just prepares for row 5, which seams to two side stitches instead of seaming to 1 side stitch.  The row 4 and row 5 type rows just consume extra stitches to keep the bottom of the slipper from getting tow long. (I write down a 1's and 2's in an appropriate series and cross them out to keep track of which one I've just done.)

At the same time,

1. Beginning on row work one increase just after the K2 together and another just before the SSK's. (This widens for the ball of the foot.)  If necessary, repeat these increases on odd numbered rows until you have increased a total of stitches.
2. Then beginning row work, an extra decrease just after the K2 together and another just before the SSK. (This narrows again for the toe.)  If necessary, repeat these decreases on odd numbered rows until you have decreased a total of stitches.

Continue until you reach the markers for the toe, ending with a knit row. (If the last row is a "type 5" row, but you are out of stitches, just work a "type 3" row, knitting 2, not 3, together etc.)

There with either be the same number of stitches on the underside compared to the top of the slipper.    Turn slipper inside out. (This is a pain in the neck when the stitches are on DPNs, and you might want to temporarily put the stitches on the circular needle to do this.) Work a three needle bind off to seam stitches on both needles, but, if there is an extra stitch on the top needle, knit three stitches together-- taking the extra one from the top--when you get to the center of the toe. (You could also graft the stitches.)

Weave in loose ends. Optional: Sew top garter stitch flange together at front. (This makes it harder to fold the tops down, but keeps your ankles warmer. )

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Abbreviations:

M1= make 1, an increase.  SSK = slip, slip knit, a decrease.  K2 tog = knit 2 together, a decrease.

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Stumble it (and place in Knitting/crochet!)

16 Comments »

1. Many years ago, while being active college student, my landlady thought me to knit slippers like that! It is nice to be refreshed!

   Comment by Sandra (15 comments.) — 10/31/2005 @ 4:03 pm

2. I love these slippers. It’s hard to find nice slippers for men. Thanks.

   Comment by Vera (0 comments.) — 5/19/2006 @ 11:14 pm

3. size 7 I repeated step 4b until I had the calculated 56 stitches on needles. After knitting the next round without increasing, I knit 4, placed marker, knit 20, placed marker,knit 9, placed marker, knit 20. Total stitches knit are 53. What shall I do with the remaining 3 stitches since I started with 56.
   Sure hope you will help me. Thank you so much!

   Comment by Margaret Wengert (0 comments.) — 8/18/2006 @ 6:49 am

4. Question: 1. The very first set of instructions says “You begin by knitting rows” but then says “purl XX rows.” Am I knitting or purling? Since it will be garter stitch, does it even matter?

   2. “Do not try to knit toe has fewer than 3 stitches.” I’m not sure I understand this?

   3. The #3 step confused me- first it says to join, but then in 3a it says next row, do a round and join. I got confused and thought maybe you join twice, and it didn’t work out well at all. There does not seem to be a 3 and a 3a, since 3a is simply explaining 3, and there is no 3b. Or maybe I’m the only nitwit it confused, lol.

   4. It would be very helpful if, in the pattern somewhere, you mention that the “m1″ you used is the same as the raglan set of increases elsewhere on your blog. I may have shed a few small tears of frustration before I figured that out.

   Comment by Renee (1 comments.) — 10/15/2006 @ 4:56 pm

5. I’m really enjoying this pattern. However, I notice a problem. Entering a fractional stich gauge in custom seems to yield an off result. For example, for slippers of 10.5 inches long and 4.5 inches wide, a stitch gauge of 3.6 or 3.75 should yield MORE not less stitches than a stitch gauge of 3. Correct: 44 cast on, inc. 10 evenly spaced, total 80 stitches, heel worked over 16 stitches by my calculations. Program says 34 cast on and 56 total stitches etc. Something is off! Hopefully it is an easy math fix because this is great pattern and excellent program. I had fun with the first pair.

   Comment by wavybrains (1 comments.) — 11/13/2006 @ 4:28 pm

6. Your hand knitted slippers look great. I don’t suppose you have made a pattern for felted hand knitted ones? I am eager to give them a go.

   Thanks
   Clare

   Comment by Clare (0 comments.) — 11/14/2006 @ 7:17 am

7. I was wondering the same thing as Clare. Has anybody tried just knitting them really large and felting them?

   Margaret

   Comment by Margaret (0 comments.) — 12/27/2006 @ 12:04 pm

8. […] With thanks to my friend Heather M, I present this link that will help you make a custom sized pair of bootie slippers. Not only can you choose the size, but the yarn weight and needle size. Plug all those into the handy dandy boxes and out comes your instructions! Neat huh? […]

   Pingback by matchedSimple Gifts » Nifty Knit Thingie… ( comments.) — 1/15/2007 @ 3:53 pm

9. Next row, slip 1 stitch, knit until 2 stitches remain. M1 stitch, k1. Place a maker. Slip last stitch on left tip to right needle tip. Place tips together to join. Check knitting is not twisted, slip stitch on right tip to left tip. then knit the first and final slipped stitches together. (This reduces 1 stitch and joins the knitting in a circle; there are stitches on needle. You will now work in rounds. The stitch after the marker is the “center front”.)

   I’m not sure about this paragraph. When you say “slip last stitch on left needle to right need tip”, then “slip stitch on right tip to left tip”…. is this not just transferring the same stitch ? Thanks for your help

   Comment by Jennifer (0 comments.) — 1/31/2007 @ 5:28 pm

10. I entered gauge, size etc and the calculator came up with letters in the pattern instead of numbers. Help. I am eager to make these as my disabled husband can’t wear socks as his feet and legs are so swollen. Thanks.
    Pat

    Comment by Pat Holm (0 comments.) — 10/10/2007 @ 2:44 pm

11. @pat, It’s working fine for me. Why don’t you visit the page and try again.

    Comment by lucia — 10/10/2007 @ 2:52 pm

12. Can you tell me where the Flange suppose to end on the foot before you start start putting on the markers?Where exactly on the top of the foot?
    Thanks
    Julie

    Comment by Julie — 11/24/2007 @ 8:29 am

13. I’ve made slippers similar to the ones on your site. To avoid my own muddle-headedness I do the following before the short-row sole:

    Instead of working two knit rounds before the sole, I knit one round. I place the markers as your pattern describes. Then I work the second round by knitting all stitches at heel and toe, but working * k2, k2 tog * along the sides of the foot.

    This way, I can work the sole by just working 1 sole st together with 1 slipper st on every row, not having to worry about whether it’s time to work an extra st or not. the effect is the same. It just makes the knitting more mindless.

    I love your blog and all your pattern generators! You’re the bomb!

    Comment by Puntitas — 12/11/2007 @ 12:48 pm

14. I want to thank you for your generosity. Sooooo very nice of you to go through the work and then share this with everyone. I just entered my numbers for the first time, so have not idea how it will translate to my feet, but am definately going to knit it up. FYI… had no trouble using your calculator.

    Thanks again!!!

    Comment by Lynn — 1/22/2008 @ 3:00 pm

15. I am looking for booties for my mom -she is nursing home–in wheel chair—how much are the booties made–call me please reply-
    email–Tobcarmad@aol.com

    Comment by cbm — 3/4/2008 @ 8:06 pm

16. hi i’m a beginning knitter and love your design but am still confused about most of the directions. is there a way to check the answers you gave to other ppls questions? because some of the ones they have asked are the same as my own.

    thanks

    Comment by Teresa — 3/13/2008 @ 12:44 pm

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