Who hoo! This is my first working calculator at the blog!

In an earlier article, I discussed how failing to match the row gauge can throw off the fit of a sleeve. This article describes how to adjust knitting directions for knitting a sleeve cap sleeve when you just can't match the designer's row gauge.

Recall, in the previous article, I discussed the problems that might affect the sleeve cap if you mismatch the row gauge. These were:

1. On a fully fashioned sleeve, the cap might be too tall or short. This can make it difficult to sew into the armhole, and it can also throw off the sleeve length. This is usually easy to fix. When the row gauge is severely off, it can be difficult to fix, but you can use the solution I will provide for the raglan sleeve.
2. On raglan sleeve, the cap might be too tall or short. This will make the armholes way too tight or droopy, and could through off the sleeve length quite a bit. These can noticeable even when the row gauge is just a bit off.

First, let's say you miss the row gauge by a moderate amount, and are knitting a fully fashioned (fitted looking) sleeve. Well, you probably won't notice the problem until you have finished the cap, basted it to the armhole and tried the cap on. You'll find it's hard to pin in. If the cap is too short, you'll have to stretch the cap to fit it to the armhole; if it's too long, you'll have to stretch the armhole.

If the problem is not too severe, this will fix it: Unravel the bind off at the top of the sleeve. If the sleeve cap is too short, knit a few more rows, decreasing just as you did before binding off. If it's too tall, unravel a few rows. Try to make the sleeve cap as deep as the designer intend.

This will make the sleeve length match the length intended by the designer, and you'll probably find the cap fits into the hole fairly well. Try the sweater on and decide if you like the look. If you do, you're all set!

Unfortunately, if your row gauge was way off you'll probably find you still couldn't get the cap to fit the armhole after adjusting the depth of the cap, then you'll have to recalculate. Luckily, you will do the exact same calculations as for raglans, so I only have to explain once!

Now on to raglans. You're probably wondering "Can't I just knit a few more rows?" Well, you can if it's possible, but it probably won't be because the top of raglan sleeves often have very few stitches at the top. Plus, with some designs, decreasing the width of the top of the sleeves makes the neckline shallow.

In that case, you can't knit a few extra rows decreasing as intended! Well, you'll have to rip back, recalculate the sleeve shaping and knit it over again. How do you recalculate?

Well....

Use this! Just fill in your own values below. The form should adapt when you insert new values.

Fixing the sleeve cap

Enter row gauge:	row/inch.
Enter the height of the sleeve cap:	inches.
Enter number of stitches required at the bottom of the cap (larger number). (If your pattern instructs you to bind off for the underarms, enter the number remaining after you bind off for the underarms. )	stitches.
Enter number of stitches in top of the cap (smaller number. ):	stitches.
Turn on Javascript or this page won't compute directions for you.
Result: Number of stitches to decrease:	stitches
You will need to work this number of rows: (This is calculated .)	rows.

SSK stands for "slip, slip, knit", it is the mirror image of "k2 tog" (knit 2 stitches together.) You can decide for yourself whether you prefer the ssk and k2 tog where I suggest you work them.  You'd get the same shaping with a different decorative effect if you switched the two operations suggested below.

Read the text message box above to see which set of directions you should follow.

1. Number of rows is greater than the total number of stitches bound off.
• Finish the lower sleeve and bind off the stitches for the underarm.  Begin right side facing. (There are stitches on the needle.)
• Knit rows.
  
• Do the following times: ** Knit 1, ssk, knit until 1 stitch remains on left needle in row,  k2 tog , k1. Work rows even.**  (When you finish, there will be stitches on the needle. )
  
• Do the following: times: **Knit 1, ssk knit until 1 stitch remains on left needle k2 tog, k1. Knit rows even. **  (When you finish, there will be stitches on the needle. )
• Bind off all stitches top of the cap.)
  


2. Number of rows is greater than the total number of stitches bound off. 
   
• Finish the lower sleeve and bind off the stitches for the underarm.  Begin right side facing. (There are stitches on the needle.)
• Do the following: times: **Bind off stitch, work to end of row. Row 2: Bind off stitch, work to end of row. **  (When you finish, there are stitches on the needle. )
• Do the following times: ** Row 1: Bind off stitches, work to end of row. Row 2: Bind off stitches, work to end of row.**  (When you finish, there are stitches on the needle. )
  
• Bind off all stitches (for top of the cap).

I bet you're thinking: "Hmm... I knew my row gauge was off when I finished the lower sleeve. Why didn't I just run that calculator before knitting the cap?" Now you're thinking like an "adaptive knitter"!

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This article is filed in calculators and tools.