The Knitting Fiend

I’m sure you’ve heard of “knitting knazis”? Those are the people who tell you how to knit, what to knit and what can and cannot be done.

Now, I will admit some knitting knazis are well informed, but I’d say the majority aren’t. From time to time, you will meet one, and they will insist something “can’t be done”. Working left slanting decreases from the purl side is one of those things I have been told “can’t be done”. ( I realized I’d met a knitting knazi because when I said “Sure, it can.”; they responded: “No. It can’t! )

Well, if this “can’t be done” then the picture to the left would not exist! You will notice there are right slanting decreases on the left edge of the swatch and left slanting decreases on the right edge. Let me assure you, I worked these decreases from the purl side! This lesson will show you how to do this. (It is not a new technique and the decreases are discussed in the reference I cite below¹.)

First, let’s discuss right slanting decreases, which are illustrated on the left side of the swatch viewed from the knit side.

Most intermediate knitters are familiar with the “k2tog” type decrease, which slants right when seen from the knit side. If I bound off the swatch shown above and passed it around, most would assume the right slanting decreases on the left edge were work that way. That’s because it’s the most “k2tog” worked form the knit side is the most common method to create a right slanting decrease.

I wanted to knit the decrease from the purl side. My swatch has two selvedge stitches; the decreases are worked over the 3rd and 4th stitches from either edge. Since I was working on the wrong side facing row (purl side), I worked two stitches, then I inserted the tip of my right hand needle as to purl into the next two stitches (see illustration); I yarned over and purled in the normal fashion.

So, this is just like normal purling except you purl two together, just as the phrase “p2tog” suggests.

Now, how did I work the matching left slanting decrease? If I has been working form the right hand side, I would have worked an “slip-slip-knit” ( i.e. “ssk”) decrease. Instead, I “purled two together through back loops“.

Since I was working on the purl side, I knit across until 4 stitches remained on the left hand needle. Then I:

• slipped the next two stitches purl knit-wise. (This means I inserted the tip of the right hand into the next stitch as to purl knit and transferred it to the right tip. Then I repeated.
• slipped these two stitches back to the left needle. (The purpose of this procedure is to change the twist on those two stitches.)
• inserted the right tip through the back loops of the two stitches on the left tip. The only “trick” is to realize that you first insert the right needle tip through the back loop of the second stitch from the left needle tip then continue on through the first stitch. I fold the needles away from me to insert the tip through the back loop; notice how the needles are angled back in the photo to the left? I flatten the angle out when I later I yarn over and purl.
• I worked the final two selvedge stitches.

The first time you practice this, it’s useful to turn the work around and examine the slant as soon as you work the “p2tog tbl”. That’s what I did when I snapped a photo of my swatch; in the photo, the two selvedge stitches remain on the right needle.

That’s it! It’s not even difficult. If a knitting knazi tells you it can’t be done, say “Nyah”!

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Foot note.
1. p. 63 of The Knitter’s Companion by Vicky Square. This is a well designed sturdy flip open knitting reference which includes a needle and stitch gauge.

I used these decreases in Two Color Star Stitch II.

Click to read my other how to knit articles.

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Thank you Melynne for pointing out the error in the text! < >