Ok… I know most crocheters are intelligent, and know more or less what they are doing, so I’m going to give very basic directions. (Which is, by the way, how I think about these.)

O- I’m American. That sounds like a stupid thing to mention, but the meaning of double crochet is different for americans, Brits, and Aussies! (I learned this the hard way.)

Bear in mind: These are an imprecise item.

So:
1: Chain about 6, slip in first chain to close the chain.

2: Chain 2 (to give height of 1 double crochet.) Then DC 7 in the hole formed by the closed chain. slip into top of chain to close. (You’ll have 7 DC’s and 1 of those chains for height in the hole. So there seem to be 8 DC’s.)
3: Chain 2 for height. Now, 2 DC in each space, making up an extra one. Slip to close. (you end up with 15 DC’s and the chain 1 for height. Do not stress about exactly where you DC. You just want 15+1 in this round. This is the underside. No one is going to pick this up and look.) The key thing: when I say in the space I mean in the space. That is to say, do this the “wrong way”– they way you wanted to do the next row when your teacher taught you. Don’t try to stick it in that top loop the way you normally do DC. Putting it really, honestly in the space makes it stretchier! (If you don’t get this, I can take a picture. But if you just think: where is the absolutely, positively easiest place to stick the hook between the verticle bars– that’s the space!)

4: Chain 2 for height. Now 2 DC in the first space, then 1 dc in the next space. Slip to close when your each the end. (You should end up with 25 DC plus the Chain 2 you worked for height.)

You should notice now that you are increasing 8 per round. Lay the thing on a flat surface to make sure it lays flat. (If it doesn’t that means you make shorter DC’s than I do, and on your next holder you’ll want to work 9 in the first circle and increase 9 per round!)

Now, keep working, increasing 8 per round , and comparing the size of the circle to a roll of toilet paper until you have the correct diameter.

Once it’s the correct diameter, stop increasing But work more rounds, always keeping the same number or stitches in a round.

From time to time, slip the thing over the toilet paper roll. When it’s as tall as the TP –even without stretching– , work 2 more rounds. Then, start to decrease 8 DC’s per round. (I just skip some spaces. Then, after a few more rounds, when it start to be hard to stick the TP into the holder, close the round and anchor the final loop. Then, make a chain, loop that through the top, and tie off. (The work is pretty stretchy, so it should get right around.)

That’s it. Sheesh, TP holders!

I could write something more precise, but I don’t think it’s worth it. (I think, once you’ve read this, you’ve figured out the pattern for wine bottles, or any other cylindrical object.)

Keep up the great blog

Paula
Sussex UK