Table of contents for ribbed-entrelac
- Ribbed Entrelac Test Knit
- Ribbed Entrelac: The scarf begins!
When we adopted Cosmo from the Humane Society, we made one thing very clear: He was expected to be a working cat. He told us he was more than willing to work for his keep. So, yesterday, I assigned him his first task: Pick out yarn for my entrelac scarf. And guess what? He picked some great stuff!

The yarn is DK weight, 100% wool, and Cosmo picked two beautiful shades of blue. Inspired by his color choices, I cast on. To the left, you can see what I’ve done so far.
I labeled the “bits”. Bits, 1&2 are knit following the directions for “Section 1″. Bits 3,4 & 5, are the left triangle, center rectangle and right triangle created following the directions in “Section 2″. Bit 6 is the first rectangle following directions for “Section 3″. The magenta line indicates a row of stitches.
In case you want to give this a whirl, here are sort of directions — but notice they aren’t complete! I’ll write the full directions up when I’m done, and I’ll write a calculator so you can vary. (Ok, you know the real reason these directiosn are here. It’s so I can print them out and check as I keep knitting section 2 and 3 over and over again. If they are confusing, please ask questions– then I can fix wording. There may be mistakes! )
MATERIALS
Main Color [MC]: Dark blue stash yarn DK [100% wool; 105 yd per 50g skein] 1 skein;
Contrast Color [CC]: Light blue stash yarn DK [100% wool; 105 yd per 50g skein].
(This happens to be Aarlan Swa Laine. I doubt this is made anymore. You can use any DK or sport yarn.)
1 set 4 mm needles
GAUGE
?? sts/?? rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
ABBREVIATIONS:
Pfb: Purl into front, then back of stitch. 1 st increased.
Kfb: Knit into front, them back of stitch. 1 st increased.
SSK: Slip 1 knit wise, slip knit wise, knit two slipped stitches together.
DIRECTIONS
IMPORTANT NOTE: Turn work at the end of each row throughout pattern, unless instructed otherwise. I’ll remind you once after row 1.
NOTES: The directions mention the “right side” and “wrong side”. There really isn’t a right side and wrong side, but the notes help you keep track of the directions, and remind you to turn the work. I mark the “right side” with a safety pin after a few rows.
Slip purlwise unless the directions instruct otherwise.
I sometimes use blue font to emphasize what’s changed since two rows earlier in the directions. This should help you understand directions like “continue in pattern established.”
SECTION 1:Two Base Triangles.
Using MC, CO 20 sts. (Note: This makes two blocks with 10 stitches each. )
Row 1 [RS]: K1,P1. (Turn the work even though there are tons of stitches on the left hand needle. Really!)
Row 2 [WS]: Sl1, p1.
Row 3 [RS]: K1, p1, k1.
Row 4 [WS]: Sl1, k1, p1.
Notice, you should be able to tell this is becoming 1 x 1 ribbing. Also, the point of triangle 1 will begin to from.
Row 5 [RS]: K1, p1, k1, p1.
Row 6 [WS]: Sl1, p1, k1, p1.
Row 7 [RS]: K1, p1, k1, p1, k1.
Row 6 [WS]: Sl1, k1, p1, k1, p1.
Continue in pattern established by rows 5-8 until row 14. (Math note, that’s 2*10 – 6.) Just in case you get lost, here are the directions for rows 13 & 14!
Row 13 [RS]: **K1, p1 repeat from ** 3 times, end k1. (You worked a total of 9 stitches.)
Row 14 [WS]: Sl1, p1, **k1, p1 repeat from ** to end.
Row 15 [RS]: **K1, p1 repeat from ** 6 times. (Note: You work a total of 12 stitches on this row. That’s 10 to complete the first base triangle and 2 for the next base triangle.)
Repeat Rows 2-14 once more.
Next Row [RS]: **K1, p1 repeat from ** 5 times. Break yarn. Mark “right side” [RS] with safety pin.
If you want to see how these triangles are going to look when after you finish, take one of the triangles off onto a spare needle. and draw the cast on into a straight line. There will be 10 stitches at the top of each base triangle. (If you do this, do put the stitches back on the needle to continue working.
)
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SECTION 2: Edge triangles and rectangles in CC.
Left Edge Triangle: Start with “wrong side” facing. You’ll be attaching yarn at the edge of triangle 2.
Row 1 [WS]: Kfb into same stitch, p2tog. (The kfb increases a stitch at the edge; the p2tog eats up one of the dark blue stitches on the top of triangle 2. Remember to turn the work.)
Row 2 [RS]: K1, p1, p1.
Row 3 [WS]: (K1,p1) into same stitch, k1, p2tog. (The k1, p1 into same stitch increases a stitch at the edge.)
Row 4 [RS]: K1, p1, k1, p1.
Row 5 [WS]: Kfb, p1, k1, p2tog.
Row 6 [RS]: K1, p1, k1, p1, p1.
Row 7 [WS]: (K1,p1) into same stitch, k1, p1, k1, p2tog.
Row 6 [RS]: K1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1.
Continue in pattern established until you reach row 15.
Row 15 [WS]: (K1,p1) into same stitch, **k1, p1, repeat from ** 3 times, k1, p2tog. Do not turn work. Note: 10 sts on right needle.
Note: Directions for Center Square and Right Edge Triangle will instruct you to pick up sts along the edge of a square. The first time you work Section 1, you will be picking these sts up along the edges of the base triangles.
Center Square:
Pick up 10 stitches along edge of square adjacent to right needle.
Now (k1, p1) across until 3 stitches remain, end (k1, then ssk.)
Next Row [RS]: **k1, p1 repeat 5 times.
Next Row [WS]: **k1,p1 repeat from ** 4 times, end k1, p2tog.
Repeat these 2 rows * times more. All sts have been worked; 20 sts on right needle. Do not turn work at end of last row.
Right Edge Triangle:
Along edge of square adjacent to right side, pick up 10 stitches and beginning with a knit stitch work in 1 x 1 rib until two stitches remain, ssk.
Row 1 [RS]: *p1, k1 repeat from *, end k1.
Row 2 [WS]: * k1, p1, repeat from * until 3 stitches remain, k1, ssk.
Row 3 [RS]: p1, *p1, k1 repeat from *.
Row 4 [WS]: *k1, p1, repeat from * until 2 stitches remain ssk.
Continue in pattern established.
Row 16 [WS]: Ssk. Break yarn. Attach other color.
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SECTION 3: Two rectangles in MC.
First Square:
With RS facing and using MC, p1, pick up and work 9 sts in 1 x 1 rib along edge of Right Edge Triangle beginning with a knit stitch, when you reach the last picked up stitch, work an ssk to “seam” with the first stitch on the top of the next rectangle.)
*Next Row [WS]: *p1, k1, repeat from *.
Next Row [RS]: *p1, k1, repeat from * 3 times, end p1, ssk.
Repeat these 2 rows 8 times more. 10 sts on right needle. Do not turn work at end of last row.*
Second Square:
Along edge of Center square, pick up 10 stitches and work the first 9 in 1 x 1 rib beginning with a purl stitch, end with ssk.
Work from * to * as for First Square. Break yarn.
=======================
Repeat Section 2 and Section 3 until work measures “some long length” inches, ending with Section 2.
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Finishing bit!
I haven’t finished! These instructions aren’t here yet!
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Bravo!
Comment by Sachi — 3/8/2007 @ 10:20 am
A sweet and clever cat! I have a cat from an animal shelter here in Sweden. His name is Robert, but he knows nothing about yarn and knitting.
Comment by Rosmy — 3/8/2007 @ 2:48 pm
Hee-hee. I thought he was going to be put to work as a mouser, not a yarn cat!
Comment by MonkeyGurrl — 3/8/2007 @ 3:00 pm
His former owner front paw declawed Cosmo. We give him the jobs he can do!
Comment by lucia — 3/8/2007 @ 3:17 pm
Declawed? Like cut off the claws on a cat? Horrible! Thank God that’s illegal in my country.
And cats love yarn. It’s a perfect job.
Comment by Rosmy — 3/9/2007 @ 3:11 pm
Yes. That’s what I mean. We wouldn’t have done it, but the previous owners did. He seems to have adjusted, but still. . .
Comment by lucia — 3/9/2007 @ 4:13 pm
Cosmo and my Sassy could be brother and sister. Sassy came from our local shelter and lives up to her name.
Comment by Brenda — 3/10/2007 @ 2:47 pm