The Knitting Fiend

Time to describe the basic construction method for a “pie wedge shawl”. This article will start at the cast on, and finish at the end of the major knitting. Later this week, I’ll describe some fine points about binding off. This weekend, I’ll post the shawl pattern generator so you can make a your own “Barbara Shawl.”

Before I start explaining, I’d like you to examine the pie wedge shawl as modeled by Colocha (see above left.) Notice there is a solid looking central areas — knit in garter stitch — with lace trim on the outside. Due to the method of construction, this trim must be an edging of some sort. I picked Loop Edging, which is 8 stitches wide and 4 rows deep.¹

The central portion of the shawl is knit using short rows. That means, as you knit, the garter stitch area will form wedges, sort of like pieces of pie, hence the generic name: pie wedge shawl. That’s seems like enough information, right? But if the shawl is large, there are going to be tons of short rows, and it’s easy to lose track of where you are. So, I’m going to reveal my tricks below!

When I knit this type of shawl, I begin with a waste yarn (or cheater’s) provisional cast on. I find some waste yarn in a thickness similar to my shawl yarn and cast on the number of stitches to make a shawl that desired length from neck to hem, adjusting for the width of the edging as required. For your first shawl, I recommend this method; I think the reason will become clear as you knit your first wedge.

How many stitches do you cast on? I’m going to write a calculator so I won’t explain how to calculate the number of stitches in this article. For the purpose of this article, you will cast on the number of stitches stated in your pattern or, if you cheated and didn’t knit a gauge swatch, cast on more! (You’ll see why.)

Now, I need to mention two things about the waste yarn: 1) Do find waste yarn similar in thickness to your shawl yarn. I used thicker yarn, and eventually creates an ugly first row. You won’t know it’s ugly until the last step; so find thin yarn! 2) Pick a contrast color yarn, and preferably something smooth you can rip out easily later.

Anyway, cast on, then knit one row, and purl a row. Break the yarn.

Now, you will knit a preparation row. With the knit side of the cast on, attach yarn. Knit the number of stitches for the edging, place a stitch marker, then knit 1 stitch. In my case, the edging was 8 stitches wide, so I knit 8, placed a marker, then knit 1.

Ignore all those un-worked stitches sitting on the left needle tip. Doing absolutely nothing fancy turn the work to start the next row.

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You’re ready for the first of 5 or 6 wedges. Begin with row 1 as follows: k1, slip the marker, follow the instructions for “row 1″ of the edging directions.

My edging had 8 stitches, so I worked a total of 8+1 = 9 stitches.

Now, work row 2 as follows: Work “row 2″ of the edging directions, slip the marker, knit 2 stitches. Then turn the work.

How do you work row 3? Knit 2, slip marker, work row 3 of your edging.
Row 4? Work row 4 of the edging, slip marker, knit 3.

Have you noticed the last stitch you knit when working row 4 was worked into a waste yarn stitch? The same was true when you worked row 2.

Ok, now continue in the pattern established, which is: Work the edging on one side of the marker. Work garter stitch on the other side of the marker, and work one additional stitch ever odd numbered row.

You’ll notice extra stitch will always be worked into the waste yarn cast on row. So, if your waste yarn is a contrast color, you won’t really need to count. You’ll be able to see where to end the short row and turn. (That’s why I recommend you cast on with a contrast colored waste yarn!)

How long to you continue doing this? Well, if you cast on the number of stitches stated in the pattern, you continue until you knit every single waste yarn stitch then finish with an odd numbered row. (If you follow my directions, this will not only be an odd numbered row, but also the second to the last row in the edging pattern repeat!)

Ok, but remember I told you that maybe you should cast on extra stitches if you didn’t knit a gauge swatch?

Why did I suggest this? Well, at this point you will have a small wedge of knitting (see above left.) When the shawl is finished and worn, the tip of that wedge is going to sit at your neck and the edge will sit at the hem. So, measure from the tip to the hem and decide if the shawl is really long enough. If it’s not long enough, and you cast on a few extra stitches, you can continue knitting short rows until the shawl is long enough. (You are also permitted to feel smug because you didn’t waste time knitting a gauge swatch!)

Now, be sure to continue knitting short rows until the shawl is the length you like. Also, make sure you end the wedge by knitting the second to the last row of the edging pattern; that way, you’ll start all wedges with the last row of your edging pattern. (My edging has a four row repeat, so finish on a “row 3″ of the edging pattern.)

Now, you’re ready to start a new wedge. But, before starting a new wedge, here’s a tip. Thread a tapestry needle and run it through all the stitches on the garter stitch side of the stitch marker, creating a lifeline.

After setting this thread, begin knitting another wedge by repeating the instructions for the first wedge starting with “row 1″. Proceed to row 2, then row 3 and so on.

Ok, so what’s with the life line? Well, when you knit row 3 of the second wedge, you’ll notice the last stitch you knit has a life line thread running through it, see below. Knit into that stitch, then turn. Later on, as you knit 1 more stitch each row the final stitch will always have a lifeline running through it. Handy, right? (Notice I didn’t think of this until I finished the second wedge? Let me tell you, the life line is very handy! )

Eventually, you’ll finish the 2nd wedge. Knit a third, a fourth and a fifth. Then, lay the piece down. Examine to see if it looks like a semi circle yet. It probably will, because, generally speaking 5 wedges of garter stitch is enough to make 180 degrees. But, if it’s shy of 180 degrees, knit another wedge!

This time, you will almost certainly form a piece that occupies at least the 180 degrees required of a semi-circle. What if it’s more than 180 degrees? I mean, say it’s 200 degrees? Don’t worry!First, this will block out fine. Second, when worn, 210 degree shawls look fine, and will, in fact, hug around your neck and “flutter” in a flattering way. In contrast, a 150 degree shawl won’t be as nice and will have a strange point at the neck. (Take my word for this.)

Ok, you know the only steps left are: Get the stitches off the waste yarn and bind off. Yep. But there is a finesse step, so I’ll show that a bit later this week!

Meanwhile, if you want to imitate this, you can make a doll shawl using about, oh…. 8 + 16 stitches. Practice making two wedges and you’ll see if this shawl making method is for you.

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1. You can find lots of pretty edgings in Barbara Walker’s Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns.