The Knitting Fiend

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Laurie wants to knit their free Filatura Di Crosa pattern, the ZarOne Cape and she asked several questions; one in comments and one by email. I think it’s worth answering both questions.

The first question is:

“How do I do the increases this pattern calls for?”

To answer, let’s first examine the schematic for the cape, shown to the right. I edited to explain some features.

The cape is a trapezoid. The knitter casts on, increases stitches to widen, then knits straight until the cape is the proper length. Then, the knitter decreases to mirror the initial increases and binds off. The buttons are sewn to one of the front edges; because the stitches are very large, this pattern calls for pushing the buttons through the holes of the stitches.

So, how do you increase? Well, the pattern is a bit vague and leaves the precise method of increasing stitches to the knitter. I like to cast on using the cable cast on, so what I’d do is

• cable cast on the 16 stitches,
• work 2 rows, then before turning the row, I’d use the cable cast on to cast on 4 stitches, (All you need to do to work Fisherman’s rib after you turn when you turn is follow the direction for Fisherman’s rib. Filatura di Crosa’s designers were kind and made sure you added in multiples of two, so you’ll find things work out just fine.)
• turn, work 2 rows, cast on 4 stitches,
• turn, work 2 rows, then cast on the 16 stitches.
• work until the edge measures the length they suggest.
• work the next 6 rows, binding off the number of stitches, as they suggest.

Because Fisherman’s Rib tends to spread a lot, and I wouldn’t want the bind off edge to be tight, I’d also try casting on using a larger diameter needle than I use to knit the fabric. To work the “increase”

Now, as to attractiveness, Laurie comments:

1) Do I only cast on the extra stitches at the beginning of the row? Not at the ends too? That’s what makes sense to me but I want to double check with someone else.

Yes. One edge only. Notice on the schematic, I drew lavender lines? The right hand edges are all lined up– no increases on that edge. The stitches are all added on the other edge.

2) Wow, cast on 16 extra stitches all at once?? That seems like so many and like it will look so strange. What do you think? Do you think it will look ok? I guess there’s only one way to know… The 4 extra cast-ons don’t look that great, don’t give it a very smooth edge., but maybe that’s hidden by the buttons?

Yes. They mean cast on 16 stitches all at once!

Unfortunately, I’m not surprised to hear the increases don’t look terrific. One of the problems with free patterns (and some for pay patterns) is the editors want knitters to quickly scan the pattern and say “that looks easy”. At first glance, shorter looks easier. After all, there are no pesky, difficult, confusing details to read.

Well, of course, shorter is easier, provided you didn’t make it shorter by leaving out crucial information.

As far as I can see, the most crucial information in this particular pattern is to describe the precise method to make the cast on and bind off edges look nice. Other than that, the instructions are “knit a straight bit”!

Those two edges are right in front. One edge will be hidden when you button it shut, but if you examine the photo, you’ll see one edge is totally exposed. The designer and editor unfortunately left it up to you, the almost beginning knitter, to figure out how to make that edge look good. (Or to make the whole thing and have that edge look wretched.)

For what it’s worth, I think you’ll be happier if you fiddle a bit before knitting the whole thing and being disappointed with the edges. So, I’d try this on a swatch, possibly using scrap yarn:

• Cast on 20 stitches using cable cast on. (Use a big fat needle to do this.)
• Switch to normal diameter needle. Turn before getting to the end of the row, work 5 stitches only; turn work to end of row. (Optional: wrap a stitch. You can fiddle and see what you prefer.)
• Turn, work 10 stitches; turn work to end of row.
• Turn, work 15 stitches; turn work to end of row. (Optional: wrap a stitch. You can fiddle and see what you prefer.)
• Turn, work all 20 stitches; turn work to end of row.
• Work a few rows. Decide if you like the edge.
• Now, work the short rows in reverse. (So, work two rows of 15 stitches only, then 10 stitches only, then 5. Then bind off everything. Use a big fat needle to bind off.

If you like this, then use this method for the cape. But, modify to get the correct shape. (That is, cast on 40 stitches. Work 16 stitches for the first short row etc.)

Now, while I have advised you to experiment, I do need to ask you, and the “knitterati” of the world this question:

I almost hate to mention this:

I guess I can check the yellow pages when I get there, or ask the concierge. I’m planning to take my camera, and I wouldn’t mind taking pictures for the blog.

I’m just trying to make everyone envious. Yes, I am.