Table of contents for ChacoDropSleeve

1. Swatching for Jim’s Next Sweater
2. Welted Leaf Pattern: Charted
3. X-and-Diamond Border

X-and-Diamond is a simple knit purl combination suitable for ganseys. If you are working on your first design project, this would like nice placed across the chest of a man’s sweater, or as border just after the ribbing.

I’ll be alternating this pattern with “Welted Leaf Pattern” when knitting Jim’s sweater.

I was supposed to cast on last night, but we got too rowdy with the inlaws. Maybe today? The family is threatening to make me watch a Bears game; I can get a lot of knitting done during that!

The knitting chart for this stitch pattern is shown to the right.

I bet you’re wondering how I’m creating these nice clear charts? I bought “Stitch Visualizer ” yesterday. The program is available for both Mac and PC from Knit Foundry. I’m finding it very easy to use, but also joined the Knit Visualizer Users Group, which is run by Nancy Walsh who wrote Stitch Visualizer. I’m sure if I run into any problems, she can answer them!

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Table of contents for ChacoDropSleeve

1. Swatching for Jim’s Next Sweater
2. Welted Leaf Pattern: Charted
3. X-and-Diamond Border

I’ll be using two stitch patterns in my next “original” design for Jim’s sweater: “Welt Leaf Pattern” and “X-and-Diamond Border”. Both are fairly simple knit-purl combinations with 8 stitch repeats and appear on page 36 of Barbara Walker’s “Treasury of Knitting Patterns”.

Because I like following knitting charts, I charted out “Welt Leaf Pattern”, it’s shown below the right. (If you have trouble reading charts, refer to How to read knitting charts. If you scroll to the bottom, you can find all 7 articles in that series.)

I’m planning a simple drop sleeve sweater for Jim. The chest will measure 40″ around. So, the body will just be one big tube up to the armholes. Tonight, I plan to calculate out the body and cast on the ribbing.

Later this week, I’ll explain how to organize the two stitch patterns– which pretty much involves centering the two patterns. There’s not much to doing it, but my philosophy is: There is always a newbie knitter out there who wants to know. Why not post the tutorial?

Who knows, if I get ambitious I’ll make a podcast!

• Tip 1: Notice how I linked back to my previous article about reading charts? Linking back is helpful for the reader. It also reminds Google that page exists and is about reading knitting charts! (This is called a ‘SEO tip’ because it has to do with pleasing a search engine.)
• Tip 2: Notice that the first time I mention Barbara Walker, her name is linked her knitting books at Amazon.com? That link helps knitters find all her knitting stitch pattern books, which quite frankly, most avid knitters eventually buy. If they happen to buy after clicking my link, I make a few bucks.

  But neither of those two are the tips! The tip is this: I inserted that automatically using a free Wordpress plugin called “aLinks”. I described how to use aLinks at Big Bucks Blogger. (I can write a better tutorial at anyone’s request. ) Do you want to see how powerful that plugin is. Look at this: Elizabeth Zimmerman! I didn’t code that: aLinks did.

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Table of contents for ChacoDropSleeve

1. Swatching for Jim’s Next Sweater
2. Welted Leaf Pattern: Charted
3. X-and-Diamond Border

Jim’s going to have a cardigan soon!

I picked up some blue “Chaco” brand yarn, which, according to the vendor at the fiber fest is “just like” Plymouth Galway. In fact, it’s spun by the same manufacturer.

Do I believe the vendor? Well, actually, I do. The yarn does look like Galway, it knits up like Galway. Yarn mills often do sell the same yarn under various labels.

I do know the yarn cost about 1/2 what I would have paid for Galway. So is it “just like Galway?” I guess we’ll see over time.

In any case, I knit a swatch using “Welted Leaf Pattern” and “X – and – Diamond Border” in Barbara Walker’s “A Treasury of Knitting”.

I plan to design a drop sleeve pullover using these yarns, and I’ll be illustrating the steps as I go along!

If I happen to find any thing to write Haiku’s about I will, but for better or worse, knitting designs have gotten less awful recently. So I’m having trouble finding inspiration!

Blogging tips for the week: To increase links to your blog, get a better page rank and encourage traffic, advise your friends to try coComment. I discuss coComment at my blog.

I set up a knitting group at coComment. I’m not entirely sure how those groups work, but there weren’t any for knitting. I think having could might help us track collect all the comments tagged “knitting” and help us track conversations at a variety of knitting blogs. Worth a try anyway!

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Two-Stitch Check is a very simple two color pattern, that can be knit by any one who has mastered stockinette. Some knitters examining the pattern might think the knitter needs to carry two yarns while knitting a row: they don’t. The knitter carries only one strand at a time; the interlacing of the colors is accomplished by slipping.

Here are the directions for the stitch pattern knit back and forth. (My swatch has two extra stitches on each side; these are knit in garter stitch. My directions omit these stitches.)

Two-Stitch Check¹:
Note: If you want a nice flexible fabric, use larger needles than you would for stockinet.

Begin: Cast on a multiple of 4 stitches.

• Row 1: White: Knit.
• Row 2: White: Purl.
• Row 3: Blue: K3, *Sl 2 wyib, k2; repeat from *, end k1. (Slip all stitches purl-wise.)
• Row 4: Blue: P3, *sl 2 wyif, p2; repeat from *, end p1.
• Rows 5 & 6: White: Repeat rows 1 and 2.
• Row 7: Blue: k1, *Sl 2 wyib, k2; repeat from *, end sl2, k2.
• Row 8: Blue: p1, *Sl 2 wyif, p2; repeat from *, end sl2, p2.

I bet beginner want to ask at least two questions: 1) What the heck do “sl 2 wyif” and “sl 2 wyib” mean? and 2) If you only use one color in each row, why does the stitch pattern look like two colors were used when knitting some of the rows?

The answers are related! I’m going to (mostly) address the second question first: Why does it look like you need to carry two colors in some of the rows?

Examine the detail of the stitch pattern shown to the right. Notice I numbered the rows — and I did so twice. You’ll see a column of numbers near the center and one near the left edge of the photo.

Rows 1 & 2 were worked with white yarn. Examine the column of numbers in the center; notice row 1 is at the bottom, followed by row 2. Rows 3 and 4 were worked with blue yarn; notice the blue rows 3 & 4 just above 1 and 2; those were knit carrying only blue yarn.

Now, remember when working row 3 and 4, I worked 2 stitches, then slipped two stitches? That’s why you see groups of two blue stitches separated by two white stitches which one might think were created while knitting the same row. They aren’t; the white stitches were created while working row 2. If you look carefully you’ll see the white stitches looked “stretched” compared to all the blue stitches; you’ll also see these white stitches appear 2 stitches tall.

Now if you think too much (and I tend to) you will wonder: “Why doesn’t the stitch worked on row 2 then slipped twice look 3 stitches tall?” The answer is “Distortion”. If you look at the column of numbers on the left side of the photo, you’ll see that this stitch knit while working row 1 is “above” the row 1 stitch further to the right.

Pretty cool, huh? I’ll let you analyze what’s happening in rows 5-8 to you!

So much for “why it looks that way”. Now, I’ll explain “sl 2 wyif” (i.e. slip 2 with yarn in front) and “sl 2 wyib” (i.e. slip 2 with yarn in back.)

Here’s the easy part: “sl” means slip a stitch. Ok, but that’s not telling you enough. I bet you noticed that when knitting, you insert the tip one way; when purling you insert it a different way? Which do you do? Turns out there are two conventions:
Convention 1: “Always slip stitches purlwise unless told otherwise.”
Convention 2: “Always slip stitches purlwise except when decreasing or told otherwise.

I call the second convention “the evil, nasty convention” and try to remember to use the first one when I write instructions. For this particular example, it doesn’t matter which convention you follow. You clearly aren’t decreasing, so you slip purlwise. To do this, pretend you are going to purl, insert the needle tip, but don’t purl — just slide the stitch over. )

Ok… but what’s with wyif and wyib?

Here goes: “Sl 2 wyif” means “slip 2 with yarn in front”. For the record, “in front” always means the side of the knitting currently facing you.

The instruction “sl 2 wyif” appears in row 4 of this pattern, where you will need to do this: a) notice the yarn is currently in the front of the work — because you just just finished a purl stitch, b) leave the yarn in the front of the work, c) slip 2 stitches purlwise and d) when you are done, notice instruction is to purl — the yarn is already in front– right where it belongs; leave the yarn in front. Purl as required to complete the next instruction.

(By the way, doesn’t this seem like what you’d have done if the pattern had simply said “Sl 2″? Some pattern writers would have edited this down to “Sl 2″ and assumed you know to leave the yarn where you had it. Unfortunately, other knitters think “Sl 2″ with no additional instruction always means sl 2 with yarn in back! So, kind pattern writers will be specific. )

Next: “Sl 2, wyib” means “slip 2 with yarn in back”. When working row 3 of this stitch pattern, this means you: a) notice the yarn is back — because you just finished a knit stitch, b) leave it in back, c) slip 2 stitches purlwise, d) notice yarn is in back– right where you need it to work the next stitch which is a knit; leave the yarn in back. Work the next instruction which is a knit stitch.

Ok, so what’s the point of explaining these two techniques in 4 steps? The point is that steps “a” and “c” require you to notice where the yarn is before you begin slipping. Then, if necessary, the first step of “b” or “d” is to move the yarn where it belongs so you can do the next step.

So, for example, if you’d just worked a knit stitch and the pattern said “sl 2 wyif”, step (a) would be “notice the yarn is in back”. So step (b) would begin with “bring the yarn forward² — passing under the needle tips — just as you bring it forward when getting ready to purl”. Then you could “slip with yarn in front”!

The key is: “slip wyif” and “slip wyib” describe where the yarn is while slipping. You need to put the yarn in the correct position, and only when necessary, passing the strand under the needle tips the way you do when working ribbing.

So, there you have it. An easy and fairly pretty stitch pattern, an explanation of when to slip purlwise, and explanation of wyif and wyib, and a promise to explain “yf” and “yb” a bit more!

1. This pattern, and others using the same technique can be found in Barbara Walker’s First Treasury of Knitting.

2. Notice, I said “yarn forward”? I was motivated to illustrate this stitch to write a complete discussion of the most diabolical term in knitting: “yf” (aka yarn forward). I plan to discuss “yb” (aka yarn back). Yep. I will!

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When I followed the directions posted, there appeared to have a few errors, which I corrected. I also reorganized the directions to help the knitter incorporate this edging into their own design.

I fiddled with this at knit-club. We all agreed that, while pretty, we prefer the sharks tooth edging for the shawl I plan. I think this edging might be nice on the hem of sleeves; the bottom would flare making a tulip effect.

Here’s how I knit the portion below the blue line:

• Cast on 33 sts and knit one row.
• Row 1: k5, place marker, p16, (yo, k2tog) to last 2 sts, yo, k2. (– 34 stitches.)
• Row 2: k29, turn. (You will reach the marker and turn.)
• Row 3: p17, (yo, k2tog) to last 2 sts, yo, k2. (– 35 stitches.)
• Row 4: k to marker, slip marker, k5.
• Row 5: k5, slip marker, k16, (yo, k2tog) to last 2 sts, yo, k2 (– 36 stitches.)
• Row 6: k13, p18, turn. (You will reach the marker and turn.)
• Row 7: k1, (yo, k2tog) to last 2 sts, yo, k2. (– 37 stitches.)
• Row 8: k18, p14, slip marker, k5.
• Row 9: k5, slip marker, knit to end of row.
• Row 10: Cast off 4, k to marker, slip marker, k5.(– 33 stitches.)
• Repeat rows 1-10.

Notice that rows 2 and 6 are “short”; when you turn, the five stitches on the other side of the marker remain on the left needle. Turning like this results in a slightly ruffled flounce attached to a 5 stitch wide garter stitch strip.

If you want to attach to the edge of a piece you’ve already knit, as I did for the portion above the blue line, and which I don’t recommend, do the following:

• Cast on only 29 stitches.
• On the first knit row, work up to the final stitch. Then work a “k2tog”, working the last edging stitch and the first shawl stitch.
• On all odd rows except 3 and 7 change k5 to slip 1. (You will be slipping that k2tog.
• On all even rows except 2 and 6, replace “k5″ with “k2tog” ; the k2tog will involve the last edging stitch and a stitch from the shawl edge.

Why don’t I recommend attaching afterwards? Well, I think the small series of holes at the attachment point class with the rest of the edging. In contrast, this series of holes looked nice when I attached the sharks tooth edging. So, I advise knitting attaching this some other way.

Still looking for more and better edgings. (And kinda having fun doin’ it!)

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Table of contents for BarbaraShawl

1. Proto Shawl
2. The Barbara Shawl: Edging Explained
3. How to Work a Pie Wedge Shawl
4. Barbara Shawl Pattern Calculator.
5. Picot Edge Bind Off
6. Shark’s Tooth Edging
7. Bleg for Edgings.

Today, I’ll give directions for the Shark’s Tooth Edging. I attached this garter stitch swatch but it can also be worked along with a main piece. I’ll describe both ways. Of course the edging can also be worked by itself and sewn on– but you don’t need me to explain how to do that, right?

Shark’s Tooth Edging: Basic Directions.

Prepare to work edging.

• Cast on 8 stitches. (For some applications, you may wish to cast on in waste yarn and knit a work a pair of rows in stockinette ending with a purl row. Afterwards attach yarn and continue. )
• Prep row: Knit one until 1 stitch remains. Place a marker. k1. (Note: if you are working the a shawl, the shawl stitches would sit here.)

The edging: The first slipped stitch of row 1 is final stitches of row 1 are on the “edge”.

• Row 1: Slip 1, slip marker, k1, (yo, k2tog) twice, yo, k2. (– 9 stitches.)
• Row 2: K2, yo, k2 (yo, k2tog) twice, slip marker, k1 (– 10 stitches.)
• Row 3: Slip 1, slip marker, k1, (yo, k2tog) twice, yo, k4. (– 11 stitches.)
• Row 4: K2, yo, k4 (yo, k2tog) twice, slip marker, k1 (– 12 stitches.)
• Row 5: Slip 1, slip marker, k1, (yo, k2tog) twice, yo, k6. (– 13 stitches.)
• Row 6: K2, yo, k6 (yo, k2tog) twice, slip marker, k1 (– 14 stitches.)
• Row 7: Slip 1, slip marker, k1, (yo, k2tog) twice, yo, k8. (– 15 stitches.)
• Row 8: K2, yo, k8 (yo, k2tog) twice, slip marker, k1 (– 16 stitches.)
• Row 9: Slip 1, slip marker, k1, (yo, k2tog) twice, yo, k10. (– 17 stitches.)
• Row 10: K2, yo, k10 (yo, k2tog) twice, slip marker, k1 (– 18 stitches.)
• Row 11: Slip 1, slip marker, k1, (yo, k2tog) twice, yo, k10. (– 19 stitches.)
• Row 12: Bind off 11 stitches , k2 (yo, k2tog) twice, slip marker, k1 (– 8 stitches.)

If you wish to knit this as you work a full shawl, cast on enough stitches for the main part of your shawl, then cast on 8 additional stitches. Follow the directions for the “prep row”– 8 stitches will be knit. Then work the directions for the main part of the shawl pattern over the shawl stitches.

Turn for the next row, follow the next row of directions for the shawl shawl; when you reach the final 8 stitches follow directions for “row 1″ of the edging. After that, just remember: the stitches on one side of the marker are edging stitches; those on the other are shawl stitches.

Here’s a tip: If you have trouble keeping track of the edging row after knitting two long shawl rows, use a post it note to mark the row you are working. (Or, read the re-organized directions below. They will help you “read” the knitting, which helps prevent losing track of your row.¹)

Ok, what if you wish to attach this to a shawl you have already knit. First: plan ahead. When knitting the shawl, be sure to slip the first stitch on the edge of the shawl purl-wise; this create a chain selvedge with 1 stitch every row.

After finishing the main part of the shawl, cast on the 8 stitches using some method that compliment the cast on method for your shawl. When you each the final stitch on the preparation row, place marker. Then instead of working k1, pick up a chain selvedge stitch from the shawl edge; this this together with the final stitch of the edging.

Turn to work row 2. Slip that first stitch — you will be slipping the stitch you created when you worked the k2tog.

Afterwards, replace every k1 with a k2tog involving one stitch from the shawl edge and one from the edging.

That’s pretty much how to work the edging. Some day I will try working the edging in a different color from the shawl. That would look cool!

Bye for now.

• Row 1: Slip 1, slip marker, k1, (yo, k2tog) twice, yo, k2. (– 9 stitches.)
• Row 3: Slip 1, slip marker, k1, (yo, k2tog) twice, yo, k4. (– 11 stitches.)
• Row 5: Slip 1, slip marker, k1, (yo, k2tog) twice, yo, k6. (– 13 stitches.)
• Row 7: Slip 1, slip marker, k1, (yo, k2tog) twice, yo, k8. (– 15 stitches.)
• Row 9: Slip 1, slip marker, k1, (yo, k2tog) twice, yo, k10. (– 17 stitches.)
• Row 11: Slip 1, slip marker, k1, (yo, k2tog) twice, yo, k12. (– 19 stitches.)
• Row 2: K2, yo, k2 (yo, k2tog) twice, slip marker, k1 (– 10 stitches.)
• Row 4: K2, yo, k4 (yo, k2tog) twice, slip marker, k1 (– 12 stitches.)
• Row 6: K2, yo, k6 (yo, k2tog) twice, slip marker, k1 (– 14 stitches.)
• Row 8: K2, yo, k8 (yo, k2tog) twice, slip marker, k1 (– 16 stitches.)
• Row 10: K2, yo, k10 (yo, k2tog) twice, slip marker, k1 (– 18 stitches.)
• Row 12: Bind off 11 stitches , k2 (yo, k2tog) twice, slip marker, k1 (– 8 stitches.)

Notice you are the unbalanced “yo” at the end of odd stitches and the beginning of even stitches constantly widens the tooth.

The first 7 stitches of all even rows are identical.

Eventually you bind these off. You could make the edging deeper by extending this pattern.

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Table of contents for BarbaraShawl

1. Proto Shawl
2. The Barbara Shawl: Edging Explained
3. How to Work a Pie Wedge Shawl
4. Barbara Shawl Pattern Calculator.
5. Picot Edge Bind Off
6. Shark’s Tooth Edging
7. Bleg for Edgings.

I tend to knit in binges, and I’m afraid Barbara launched me into a shawl binge. Since I compulsively create all my own patterns, this means I need to begin exploring nifty shawl techniques. Today, I experimented with a a “picot edge bind off”.

I read some instructions for this bind off and interpreted them a few ways. I could explain why I thought the directions I found ambiguous, but I’ll just explain the organization I found prettiest. If you know a different way to do this, let me know!

Anyway, here’s what I did:

Now, we’ll start the “repeating” part:

1. P2 tog. You now have a stitch on the right needle tip.
2. Insert right needle tip between the first two stitches on the left needle tip as if to purl (See below left.) Yarn over purl — stitch created. Put this stitch back on the left tip.
3. Repeat. You will be inserting the right tip to the left of the stitch you just created. Put the stitch you just created on the left tip. Below right, stitch 1 is the stitch that was on the left tip originally. Stitches 2 & 3 are the ones you just created.
4. Place stitch 4 on the left tip.
5. Now, p2 tog. Repeat 4 times (You’ll do this a total of 5 times.)
6. Repeat from step 1.

I think this is much prettier than the plain old bind off I did on Colocha’s version of Barbara. I’ll be working this for future incarnations of Barbara (and pretty much all future pie wedge shawls.)

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